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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 210 total · 1/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

fun route with a cruxy start. solid crimps and slippery smears will gain you the first bolt. venture right to the arete and enjoy solid 2 finger pockets up the face. the crux is above the last bolt, veer left or right, but beware of loose rocks and gravel.

Protection

bolts. please use your own gear for toprope.

Photos

Jason Wells 1
West Des Moines, IA
 
Jason Wells 1   West Des Moines, IA
 
I really, really enjoyed this route. Maybe a 10a/b at the crux rather than a 9, but awesome movement. You have to search for the holds a bit, but they are there. May 31, 2016
rooooock
Oakland, California
 
rooooock   Oakland, California
 
Tree is gone. Tree removal sent a ton of dirt onto the route but I did my best to scrub it clean on rappel. Mud still seems to be raining on the route probably from the torn up dirt above. Will probably need to do some more intensive dirt removal and cleaning. Oct 9, 2014
rooooock
Oakland, California
 
rooooock   Oakland, California
 
I wouldn't climb B.F. Bugs until that birch tree comes down. I'm guessing it'll mysteriously disappear in a couple weeks, just please be patient and don't climb this till then. Sep 22, 2014
James Anderson
Minneapolis, Minnesota
James Anderson   Minneapolis, Minnesota
I enjoyed this route a lot. Great texture all around, a little sandy because it doesnt get climbed too often. Any guess what the direct start is? Felt a lot harder than .9+. More like 10d/11a Jul 20, 2011
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
 
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
 
I've climbed it 30ish times and it still gets me sketched out. Work hard for that direct start. Jul 10, 2008