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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 272 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A fairly dirty/sandy climb. Basically just follow the large left leaning crack. Start in the corner and stem your way to a large inclined ledge. Continue acress the ledge without pro (a hex adds some extra security here). Continue up as the climb becomes vertical again, clipping a somewhat blind bolt around left of the crack and eventually reaching the top.
  • RCM&W #113, p.137.

Location

About 20 yards past Two Tone Zephyr there is a large left facing crack. Start in a dihedral at the base of this crack.

Protection

4 bolts, maybe a hex or two for added security (not required). Please use your own equipment when top roping.

Photos

Rael Rodning
  5.8- PG13
Rael Rodning  
  5.8- PG13
Second bolt has been supplemented. The old second bolt is still there but a brand spanking new one was set this summer. Jul 27, 2015
Nate Flink
Minneapolis, MN
Nate Flink   Minneapolis, MN
One of the anchor chains is a little manky Nov 15, 2013
kamrujj  
Has anyone been up this route lately? Last time I was up it, one of the bolts at the anchor looked a little iffy to me. Aug 5, 2013
I climbed this recently without the recommended backup pro. It is by no means the most dangerous runout 5.8 at Red Wing, but probably the least worth it. Oct 27, 2011