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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 172 total · 1/month
Shared By: Eric Swanson on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the first obvious, and very dirty, crack you come to after (to the right) of Eggs and Darts and Shit. The first move is a little bit of a stem up a slightly overhanging crack, and then moves over a quick little bulge (at about the 8ft mark) to easier ground up a hand/offwidth size mud choked crack. It continues straight up the crack feature, and ends in a dirt slope to the left of the slight overhanging feature over Syncopation. While the climb is relatively easy, gear is not reliable and should be approached with caution. Be prepared with a full set of cams, and put them where ever you can. A larger cam or two might be a good idea. Also a few small nuts could be put into the broken up face to the right of the crack, between it and Syncopation. Also, you will need to either do a double rope rappel from a tree on the top, down-climb, or walk off, as there are no anchors. And please don't leave a bunch of webbing up top, as it will get covered in mud and deteriorate quickly.

  • RCM&W #98, p.2007-09 135

Protection

a top rope can be set up on the trees at the top. OR, a leader can protect it relatively well with a set of cams and some small nuts. Don't fall. I would approach this, as well as several other dirty lesser climbed cracks at redwing with an ice mentality of "do not fall".

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Ken G
farmington, mn
Ken G   farmington, mn
Top rope anchor added on 7/21/13. Two 1/2 inch by 4 3/4 inch stainless powers bolts with ring anchor hangers. Climb at your own risk. Aug 4, 2013
Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Lead this a year ago now, and it was definitely a do not fall type of climb. No anchors, and REALLY muddy at the top. be careful. Bring a set of BD c4s and a few small nuts. Either walk off the top, or rap a tree. Nov 7, 2011

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