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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Dave Brant, 1996
Page Views: 2,346 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Small holds lead to a large hueco and the first bolt. After clipping the first bolt move right on small crimpy holds to the second bolt (crux). Continue up, angling left, following the bolts to the anchor. This route shares anchors with No Whipping Boys.
  • RCM&W #115, p. 137.

Location

This route is the bolted line to the right of the finger crack No Whippin Boys and the large diagonal crack Living Postmortems. It starts half way up a hill. Look for a large and most likely over chalked hueco about 10 feet up.

Protection

4 Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.

Photos

ferrells  
 
This was one of the first routes I ever led outside of the climbing wall where I learned to climb. It must have been spring or summer 2002.
I fell going to the first bolt, hit the ground, which angles to the left, flew past my spotters, who thought that I would fall towards them, and rolled down the hill for twenty feet. I was happy to be able to do it second try, with bloody cuts all over my back.
It's funny how different things look with experience. Jul 11, 2010
John Rosner
Hopkins, MN
 
John Rosner   Hopkins, MN
 
This route is more difficult than rated without very particular beta for those under 6' I give it a 5.11a/b, I'm 5'8" and the direct start to dealer's choice (the pusher) is rated a 5.11b and that was onsightable. Absolutely an awesome climb, a crash pad is welcome here. Aug 11, 2008