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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,047 total, 15/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

I thought this route was pretty fun. It starts up the flake to the right of Jenna's Chimney and after the flake it is bolted. It's runout but relatively easy to climb the flake unprotected, but you could bust an ankle if you blow it. So bring a nut, or bring your nuts.

  • RCM&W #95, p. 134

Protection

Bolts if you're bold, otherwise, most people place 1-2 medium size nuts behind the flake before the first bolt. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
I agree that the start is harder than 5.8. We clipped the second bolt from a top-rope on Jenna's Chimney (not super easy but doable) to protect the lower crux. Fun route but the bottom is harder than you might think. There's also a loose flake by the second bolt, just a heads up. Top half has jugs and some choss but is fun. Apr 22, 2015
rooooock
Oakland, California
 
rooooock   Oakland, California
 
The entire route above the start is no harder than 5.8. It's just the start that I find to be sandbagged. Jun 23, 2014
Joel Torgeson
  5.9+
Joel Torgeson  
  5.9+
Hit this one recently and would NOT recommend it to anyone. I agree with others above that this is sandbagged at 5.8 in the books. Felt more like a 5.9+ to me. Perhaps some key holds have been lost along the way? Sections felt almost cartoonishly easy, and then were followed (or preceeded by) significantly more difficult stretches. Beginning definitely required a nut for protection, and the rock quality for most of it was sandy, slippery, and downright irritating. I scraped mud off of my fingers after moving past a hold on many occasions.

As of when I lead it the chains were COVERED BY A DOWNED TREE that was rather irritating to work around, and could be dangerous if you were to grab it accidentally and it were to slide off the cliff above. Unlikely, but throwing a tree on your belayer is a easy way to lose friends. This could be taken care of by an adventurous soul with a chainsaw, but for now it's a major nuisance.

Bottom line: there are much more fun climbs in the area, do them instead. Jun 8, 2014
rooooock
Oakland, California
 
rooooock   Oakland, California
 
I rate the start at V1. I tried this start a dozen times one day last year and got shut down. Yesterday I came back and got it on the second try of the day. I also got Annadonia's start yesterday on my first try. The moves on the start of Jenna's Face are straightforward compared to the Annadonia start, but the start of Jenna's Face has been really low percentage for most people in my experience.

So yeah, basically a mid-10s start followed by climbing on loose, soggy, mossy choss.

Also, we pulled off a 30-40 pound block, and there's more loose stuff. Keep your belayer at bay. May 18, 2014
Brian Paulson
  5.9+ PG13
Brian Paulson  
  5.9+ PG13
If your short on trad gear you can access the second clip from Jenna's Chimney, lower and climb the start on top rope then finish on lead. Aug 8, 2011
BigMoveMike
prescott
  5.8 PG13
BigMoveMike   prescott
  5.8 PG13
if some one added a bolt to the start this would be just another OK 5.9+, but the run out start and sandbagged rating( 5.8 in the falcons guide)give this route some real character. Fun climb. May 4, 2010
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
  5.9 PG13
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
  5.9 PG13
Hard Start, with slick feet. Crash pad and a DMM#3 nut left of the flake are good pro for the start. Sep 13, 2008