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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Nate Postma & Jeff Engel, 1990
Page Views: 4,123 total, 29/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up to a large bulge and move right to surmount it. Work your way left after the bulge, then back again right, and finally left to the anchors (that's the way I climb it anyway). One of the best 5.9s at Red Wing.
  • RCM&W #108, p. 135.

Location

This route is immediately around the corner from Goofed on Skunk Weed just right of the arete. This route is approximately 200 yards to the right from the top of the approach trail.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.

Photos

Bobby Omann
Minneapolis, MN
Bobby Omann   Minneapolis, MN
Thanks for the feedback, The intention was to reduce groundfall potential for someone who is challenged by the grade and may not want to climb themselves into a run-out to the second bolt. I will go back and re-climb and and figure out what to do whether that be remove the bolt or find a better place. Aug 3, 2016
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
This newly added bolt is unnatural to the climb and awkward to clip. The route flows well to the 2nd (now 3rd) bolt by doing one more hand move and standing up into a near-to-no-hands rest.

Anyways, thanks for adjusting the last bolt to be more in line with the rest of the bolts. Jul 16, 2016
Bobby Omann
Minneapolis, MN
Bobby Omann   Minneapolis, MN
I reequipped this route on 6/5/2016 with bolts paid for by the MCA. I added a bolt between 1-2 to reduce decking potential. Please note there are 5 bolts now instead of 4 so you don't run out of draws! I moved the 4th (now 5th) bolt a bit back to the left to straighten out the line (in retrospect i could have moved it a bit more but oh well). 2 of the bolts were the originals with SMC hangers placed by Jeff and Nate in 1990 (on lead because of the ethics of the time period, hence the wandering nature) This rig climbs really well and is less scary now for a 5.9 leader. Get on it! Jun 8, 2016
Jason Wells 1
West Des Moines, IA
 
Jason Wells 1   West Des Moines, IA
 
Enjoyed this route a lot. Crux to me was definitely between the last bolt and anchors. Super polished. Holds were solid, but not much for feet. May 31, 2016
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
Fun route, that second bolt does seem a little high but it's not too bad. Fun climb. Enjoyed climbing it without beta, took a while to figure out where to go though. Apr 26, 2015
Dennie  
Just climbed this for the 1st time yesterday. The flake is there and still somewhat loose but the "X" is no longer there (or is not noticeable). Please be careful! Sep 15, 2014
Fun climb. Maybe 5.9+ with the 3rd or 4th bolt placed so far right...

Either way, the small bomber flake next to the 2nd bolt is LOOSE. It has a big X on it now. But if you really must use it, let your belayer know to stand out of the way on the off chance is comes loose. Aug 5, 2012
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
 
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
 
I would have to agree with Andrew.
While there is deck potential, I agree with the way the route was bolted. The climbing between bolts 1 and 2 is relatively easy for the 5.9 grade. I never felt sketchy in that section of the climb. If you can climb 5.9 then you should be just fine on this route. Sep 25, 2009
Andrew Krosbakken  
  5.9+
Sevve I agree about the decking potential but the crack/ flake to the right of the first bolt has some bomber jugs and I never felt sketched out going for the 2nd bolt. There are many other climbs at RW with a higher second bolt than this one and a sketchier landing. And for being a confident 5.10 leader to do this, I don't know. Yes and no. I don't want to offend you Sevve I just don't want to give people the wrong impression of this route.

A very fun climb with a crimpy finish that will test technique. Except for the second bolt being a tish bit high it is well bolted and a must do. Nov 17, 2008