Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Mike Dalhberg & Melissa Quigly, FL: Nate Postma & Steve Wilgge
Page Views: 1,778 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

The crux of this route is not slipping off the polished holds. Follow the line of bolts on the arete to the top using the sparkling polished holds en route.
  • RCM&W #103 p.135.

Location

This is the arete between Goofed On Skunk Weed and Pandemonium.

Protection

5 or so bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own equipment for top roping.

Photos

BrianUp Up
Charlottesville, VA
 
BrianUp Up   Charlottesville, VA
 
I like this route. I'm 5'8" and some moves are a little challenge for a 5.8, but fun. Jul 31, 2007
Mike Frost  
 
I've always enjoyed what I take to be the crux move on this climb. I do wonder what the route must have been like back when the moves on the arete weren't on foot holds worn polished by years of traffic. As a consequence it's either a little dicey for a new leader, or a little thrilling, depending on your philosophy. Jun 6, 2010
ferrells  
 
Should be renamed Butter-Coated-Teflon Arete. Jul 11, 2010
Blake K
Carrboro, NC
  5.8+
Blake K   Carrboro, NC
  5.8+
It'd be a little more fun if it weren't so slick... Oct 10, 2010
Dakota S.
Denver, CO
 
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
 
This is not a 5.8. I would honestly say with the polished holds and crimpy moves, this would be a 5.9+. I am well within the 5.10 range and some have been easier than this. This is an underrated route but is also a lot of fun. Just prepare Sep 28, 2013
Jacob Nichols
Carver
  5.9 PG13
Jacob Nichols   Carver
  5.9 PG13
Very slick holds in some spots, the crimps are okay though. Sep 14, 2018