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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Mike Dalhberg & Melissa Quigly, FL: Nate Postma & Steve Wilgge
Page Views: 1,725 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

The crux of this route is not slipping off the polished holds. Follow the line of bolts on the arete to the top using the sparkling polished holds en route.
  • RCM&W #103 p.135.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the arete between Goofed On Skunk Weed and Pandemonium.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 or so bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own equipment for top roping.

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BrianUp Up
Charlottesville, VA
 
BrianUp Up   Charlottesville, VA
 
I like this route. I'm 5'8" and some moves are a little challenge for a 5.8, but fun. Jul 31, 2007
Mike Frost  
 
I've always enjoyed what I take to be the crux move on this climb. I do wonder what the route must have been like back when the moves on the arete weren't on foot holds worn polished by years of traffic. As a consequence it's either a little dicey for a new leader, or a little thrilling, depending on your philosophy. Jun 6, 2010
ferrells  
 
Should be renamed Butter-Coated-Teflon Arete. Jul 11, 2010
Blake K
Carrboro, NC
  5.8+
Blake K   Carrboro, NC
  5.8+
It'd be a little more fun if it weren't so slick... Oct 10, 2010
Dakota S.
Denver, CO
 
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
 
This is not a 5.8. I would honestly say with the polished holds and crimpy moves, this would be a 5.9+. I am well within the 5.10 range and some have been easier than this. This is an underrated route but is also a lot of fun. Just prepare Sep 28, 2013

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