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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Mike Dalhberg & Melissa Quigly, FL: Nate Postma & Steve Wilgge
Page Views: 1,685 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 5, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

The crux of this route is not slipping off the polished holds. Follow the line of bolts on the arete to the top using the sparkling polished holds en route.
  • RCM&W #103 p.135.

Location

This is the arete between Goofed On Skunk Weed and Pandemonium.

Protection

5 or so bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own equipment for top roping.

Photos

Dakota S.
Denver, CO
 
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
 
This is not a 5.8. I would honestly say with the polished holds and crimpy moves, this would be a 5.9+. I am well within the 5.10 range and some have been easier than this. This is an underrated route but is also a lot of fun. Just prepare Sep 28, 2013
Blake K
Carrboro, NC
  5.8+
Blake K   Carrboro, NC
  5.8+
It'd be a little more fun if it weren't so slick... Oct 10, 2010
ferrells  
 
Should be renamed Butter-Coated-Teflon Arete. Jul 11, 2010
Mike Frost  
 
I've always enjoyed what I take to be the crux move on this climb. I do wonder what the route must have been like back when the moves on the arete weren't on foot holds worn polished by years of traffic. As a consequence it's either a little dicey for a new leader, or a little thrilling, depending on your philosophy. Jun 6, 2010
BrianUp Up
Charlottesville, VA
 
BrianUp Up   Charlottesville, VA
 
I like this route. I'm 5'8" and some moves are a little challenge for a 5.8, but fun. Jul 31, 2007