Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,941 total · 32/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 21, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Description

Follow the thin crack and line of bolts. The names derives from placing one buttock on the crux ledge (two-thirds of the way up) in order to gain the ledge. Alternative mantel, high step methods are also acceptable. A somewhat sustained and fun climb.
  • RCM&W #111, p.137.

Location

This route is the second line of bolts to the right of Two Tone Zephyr, between Doctor Limit and Doctor Rock.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own hardware for top roping.

Photos

I've been on this several times over the years. I'm heading out this weekend and always wondered if it'd ever been done on gear? There is reasonable gear most of the way with a little runout at the top.

Anyone have any idea? Aug 1, 2008
Hmmm... Hadn't actually thought of that before but I'm sure it would go. Possibly a good one to know where the gear goes before hopping on cause we all know what the rock is like at RW. Tell me how it goes.. Aug 2, 2008
In all the times i'd gone last time I finally thought of trying it on gear, well it actually went alright

Gear Beta:
.5 C4 in a pod just above the first bolt
.4 C4 just above 2nd bolt
Blue TCU in flake just to the right before mantle ledge
Silver & Purple TCU in horizontal seam just right of mantle ledge
Blue TCU in textured crack above mantle ledge (only 2 lobes)
#4 BD nut just above the blue TCU

Overall the gear looked decent. I don't know how much i'd trust the 0 & 00 in the seam right at the ledge but on the way down I tested them and they seemed alright. Other than that it felt pretty secure.

Definitely fun to do if you're looking for something else to try at Red Wing. Aug 2, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.10b
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.10b
can also be led only on nuts. Oct 25, 2008
Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Lead on gear today. Went just fine. Bring some small c3s and a few c4s 1 and under. A small nut or two for the top. Nice climb. Nov 6, 2011