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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,529 total, 32/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 21, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Description

Follow the thin crack and line of bolts. The names derives from placing one buttock on the crux ledge (two-thirds of the way up) in order to gain the ledge. Alternative mantel, high step methods are also acceptable. A somewhat sustained and fun climb.
  • RCM&W #111, p.137.

Location

This route is the second line of bolts to the right of Two Tone Zephyr, between Doctor Limit and Doctor Rock.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own hardware for top roping.
Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Lead on gear today. Went just fine. Bring some small c3s and a few c4s 1 and under. A small nut or two for the top. Nice climb. Nov 6, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.10b
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.10b
can also be led only on nuts. Oct 25, 2008
In all the times i'd gone last time I finally thought of trying it on gear, well it actually went alright

Gear Beta:
.5 C4 in a pod just above the first bolt
.4 C4 just above 2nd bolt
Blue TCU in flake just to the right before mantle ledge
Silver & Purple TCU in horizontal seam just right of mantle ledge
Blue TCU in textured crack above mantle ledge (only 2 lobes)
#4 BD nut just above the blue TCU

Overall the gear looked decent. I don't know how much i'd trust the 0 & 00 in the seam right at the ledge but on the way down I tested them and they seemed alright. Other than that it felt pretty secure.

Definitely fun to do if you're looking for something else to try at Red Wing. Aug 2, 2008
Hmmm... Hadn't actually thought of that before but I'm sure it would go. Possibly a good one to know where the gear goes before hopping on cause we all know what the rock is like at RW. Tell me how it goes.. Aug 2, 2008
I've been on this several times over the years. I'm heading out this weekend and always wondered if it'd ever been done on gear? There is reasonable gear most of the way with a little runout at the top.

Anyone have any idea? Aug 1, 2008