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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 121 total, 1/month
Shared By: Darin Limvere on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

In a weird way, some of the most unique rock at red wing. Fingery start and a hard clip moves into patina-like crimps. Sustained with a tricky crux until it gets a little muddy/dirty up top. Hold finding can be a bit difficult on the lower half of this climb. Depending on the season, the chains can be sketchy to clip due to the mud/dirt factor on the upper half. The center line just right of Jenna's face.

Protection

bolts. warning, bolts require replacement. use your own gear for toprope.

Photos

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Christopher Deal
Fargo, ND
  5.12b
Christopher Deal   Fargo, ND
  5.12b
Guide book said 12c... Here says 12a, feels harder than 12a but not a exactly a 12c! It just kinda sucks, good crimps just very sharp Sep 13, 2015
Yeah, I remember taking two things away from this route:

The bottom seemed suuuper hard for the 12a rating. felt more like V6 to me. The rock was sweet though.

The top was teetering choss. Nov 29, 2009
AntVicino  
 
Some of the sharpest crimps I have ever held. The holds are all positive but I dont think this climb could have been less enjoyable. The top is mud. Oct 24, 2009