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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,069 total, 8/month
Shared By: dvsanbt on Jun 13, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Bouldery start, meets up with Three Fat Chicks above the first bolt. The crux is about midway, after which the climb eases up. Avoid going too far left onto Vertical Vice territory (tempting, but off route). After the last bolt, traverse to the anchors for Goofed. Somewhat sandy at the top.

  • RCM&W # 105, p 135

Location

Starts in the small dihedral between Vertical Vice and Goofed on Skunkweed.

Protection

4/5 bolts and anchors at the top. You may want to sling the drill hole between the first and second bolts.

Photos

randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
despite my doubts, i actually enjoyed this thing. Apr 18, 2011
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
 
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
 
I find it easier to not use as much of the "crack" at the begining, but use some crimpy face holds and quick moves to the jugs. Be ready for slick foot holds at the second crux. Jul 10, 2008