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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 2,890 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 24, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the finger crack up and to the right. I tended to lay the crack back more than jam, but either works well. Place nuts and cams as you go or TR after leading Prairie Fire. The rock is relatively solid by Red Wing standards.
  • RCM&W #114, p.137.

Location

This route starts to the immediate right of the bolted crack Living Postmortems. Look for a finger crack with a nearby bolt (1st bolt on Living Postmortems).

Protection

Nuts and small cams, 1 optional bolt down low (Living Postmortems), and 1 up high (Prairie Fire). Shares anchors with Prairie Fire, please use your own hardware for top roping.

Photos

Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
 
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
 
Bomber finger locks! It felt like the feet were VERY slick, but it's been a while since I've climbed at red wing :)

I second the doubles on BD .75 (green) I would have liked three, although a nut worked just fine...

Watch out for the bat who lives about 2/3 way up... I almost whipped because of him! Jun 6, 2011
ferrells  
 
This was one of my first 10a trad leads. Perhaps 2003?
I made it clean to the anchor on what I thought was probably good gear. When I clipped the anchor and sat back, I did not have a multi-directional first piece, and my partner was pretty far back. Every piece of gear popped out of the crack, and spun around the rope to rest on top of my belayer's ATC. I remember thinking, "Oh, that explains that recommendation..." Jul 11, 2010
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.10a
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.10a
Great finger locks on this thing. Gobbles pro, bring doubles of BD green and purple and singles of other small BD cams. The larger three master cams worked great on this as well. May 28, 2009
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
  5.10a
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
  5.10a
Fun climb. Move quick. Jul 10, 2008