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Routes in New Vice Area

Alligator Allimony TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B.F. Bugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blue Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blue Steel S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Call of the Mild S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dealer's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Limit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doctor Rock S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eel Pocket Route TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eggs and Darts and Shit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eyebolt Approach TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Frequent Flatulence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goofed On Skunk Weed T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenna's Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Jenna's Face T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Living Postmortems S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
New Tomorrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Whippin Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandemonium S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pleasant Summer Absence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prairie Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Syncopation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Fat Chicks on a World Tour S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Two Tone Zephyr S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vertical Vice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Knarly Dudes T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
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Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1990
Page Views: 6,609 total · 45/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


133 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb atop a small ledge 10 ft up (probably the crux), be aware of the loose rock on the right. Follow the finger to hand sized crack to the anchors. In addition to the crack there are many small ledges. Although it is bolted as a sport route, this route protects very well traditionally if you skip the bolts.
  • RCM&W #106, p. 135.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route lies in a corner left of Two Tone Zephyr about 200 yards to the right from the top of the approach trail.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts to an anchor or for the traditionally minded nuts, hexes, and cams to handsized. Please use your own hardware for top roping whenever possible.

Photos

Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
  5.8
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
  5.8
Nice Trad lead. Use a 00 TCU to protect the "mount-the-ledge-move" at the bottom then it is good nut and small cam placements to the top. I used a #4 camalot near the top where the cracks split. Remember it is bad form to use the two holes and to clip the chains before standing on the ledge. Sep 26, 2008
Kevin O'Connor
Jacksonville, AR
Kevin O'Connor   Jacksonville, AR
Another great trad lead at the Bluff. Why is this bolted? Feb 22, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Oconnork says: "Another great trad lead at the Bluff. Why is this bolted?"

Why don't you call Nicros and ask Nate what the heck he was thinking when he bolted this climb while developing this crag the year you were born. Feb 24, 2010
Kevin O'Connor
Jacksonville, AR
Kevin O'Connor   Jacksonville, AR
Ah ha! Good idea! Feb 24, 2010
The loose flake on the right of the crux has finally gotten pulled off. Makes this a much more strengthy crux and probably a legit 5.8 without the minus now. Aug 16, 2012
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
First time climbing this route today and it's one of my favorites at Red Wing so far. Really fun route with a little bit of everything, definitely worth a try. Apr 26, 2015
Buck Rio   MN
The reason this isn't a trad lead is the whole place is choss. It is continually falling apart and the grades are just a snapshot, because a key hold is snapping off of every route almost weekly...by the way, BITD this was rated 5.6. Mar 22, 2018

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