Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kurt Smith and Tommy Thompson, April 1988
Page Views: 1,267 total · 8/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jun 4, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

Although this route garners a single star in the Watts guidebook, I found the climbing to be sustained and mentally scintillating on good to excellent rock. The crux entails unorthodox moves over a small roof half way to the top but there are many difficult sections beginning off the ground. Reaching the anchors requires climbing over a second small roof (10+) about 10' above the last bolt. A fall would be undesirable at this point.

Location

The route begins on the far left side of the Picnic Lunch Wall.

Protection

Quick draws for 10 bolts to rappel anchors. A stopper placement may be possible at the final roof. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

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corvegas
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
this route was put up on lead, well after rap bolting had taken over smith Jun 7, 2006
mark d  
you beat me to it, tyler!

this route was put up on lead by kurt smith and thom thompson(sp?). on the same trip they put up, sole survivor, ground up as well. both 5.11 face climbs! Jun 8, 2006
bryans
 
bryans  
 
i have to agree that a fall at the final roof would be bad news. you are not only 10 feet above, but also 7-10 feet to the left of, the last bolt. i tried a few times in vain to place stoppers and TCUs at the roof (fighting the pump), but nothing seemed any better than psych pro. i left a bail biner (which stayed there for over a year) so i never found out how hard the mantle over the roof is. maybe an offset would have fit??? Apr 9, 2007
Matt Solomon
Central Point, OR
Matt Solomon   Central Point, OR
While the potential fall may seem scary, I caught my partner falling from a position with both hands over the last roof, and it wasn't bad at all. As for getting over the roof, there is a left hand jug undercling that allows reaching up to a triangular block. You can match on this block, move the right hand up again, and step over the roof. It's likely a 10- move which just seems harder with the fall potential. This is a really good route with a great variety of moves and difficulties. Jun 22, 2011
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11d
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11d
Awesome route! Agreed with Matt, the roof is trivial if you have made it through all the sustained and perplexing climbing to this point. I was so glad to be on some big holds at that point I wasn't thinking about the fall. Mar 20, 2016