Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 789 total · 72/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Jan 18, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

Sharing is Caring is located on the far right side of the Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith Rock State Park.

P1: 5.10c, 13 bolts. Classic Smith slab nubbin climbing with 2 cruxes. The lower crux climbs through a broken back flake section. The upper crux uses blobby slopy crimpy holds. Fun stuff! The route gets easier the higher you go.

P2: 5.11c 13 bolts. Work up the arete and slab until the route busts right and climbs through the overhang on jugs. Pulling the lip is probably the hardest move.

P3: 5.11a 11 bolts. FIxed anchors. Start on out the flake that is shared with Teddy Bear’s Picnic. Once established onto the slab, keep working up and right staying on course of Sharing is Caring. Work up the insecure slab to the fun dihedral section. The rock is slick up there!! 

Belay both climbers up the third pitch from the 2nd pitch ledge.. both climbers get to lead the 3rd pitch and won’t end up crammed up in that small corner at the 3rd pitch anchors. Enjoy!!

Location

Located to the right of the Honey Pot on the Picnic Lunch Wall.

Protection

Bolts. Quicklinks at all 3 rap stations and fixed anchors at the 3rd pitch anchor station.

Photos

ckersch
 
ckersch  
 
Left some biners at the second pitch anchor. We didn't see quick links or draws on anything, so we bailed before the final pitch so as to not need to leave more gear. First two pitches of the route were great, especially P2. I'll be back to finish the whole thing after I get some quick links to bring up...

Also: any beta on the routes that split off left from this one? There's one at the first anchor and one half way up the second pitch. Sep 15, 2018
Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
  5.11c
Chris Hatzai   Bend, OR
  5.11c
Sorry about that bro, i was up on that first pitch the other week and saw someone ganked all the draws i had left on those routes.. the thing off to the right is an undone project.. it’s open as of now if you wanted to give it a go.. thinking it’s in the 5.14 range... you can link the first few bolts on the line on the right and link into Sharing is Caring.. was thinking that link up would be around 12a or b... And the third pitch is really fun!! Cryptic!! Sep 15, 2018