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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Chris Hatzai
Page Views: 562 total · 94/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Jan 18, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

Sharing is Caring is located on the far right side of the Picnic Lunch Wall at Smith Rock State Park. This 3 pitch route offers several different styles of climbing and leads nearly to top of the cliff. Although the bad rock above cuts the climb just shy of the summit, the 3 quality pitches and exposed positioning of the route will surely make up for not tagging the summit. 3 individual rappels are required to descend safely. A 70m rope is required.

P1: 5.10c, 13 bolts. Classic Smith slab nubbin climbing with 2 thought provoking cruxes. The lower crux climbs through a broken back flake section. Key gastons and a far reaching finger pocket are required to unlocking the lower crux. Keep working up the route on solid nubbins establishing onto a jug flake system. Cruise the jug flake and work into the upper crux. Set into a series of small nubbins with great feet. Use classic Smith technique to style your way past the upper crux and set into the next 5 bolts of bomb nubbin climbing. Enjoy the no hands rests at every stance you take to the anchors. Climb past the first set of anchors, clip 1 bolt and arrive at another anchor station located below pitch 2.

P2: 5.11c 13 bolts. Start out climbing up the slab flake system left of the anchor station. Clear a bulge and work onto the large arete above. The route climbs on both the slab and overhanging arete. When the sections seem to get hard, there in lies a path waiting on the slab. The climb continues like this until the last 12’ when the route forces you out onto an overhanging jug. Clip from the big jug and do some fun 5.11 overhanging moves with an exciting pull over mantel move 200’ in the air! Pull the lip, clip 2 more bolts and arrive at the second anchor station.

P3: 5.11a 11 bolts. FIxed anchors. Start on out the flake that is shared with Teddy Bear’s Picnic. Once established onto the slab, keep working up and right staying on course of Sharing is Caring. 5 bolts of nubbin climbing breaks way to a section of easy segmented slab climbing. These slabs lead to the final section of the route. Enter the perfectly blank looking dihedral cautiously! This portion of rock is quite slick with lichen and has somewhat of a natural slickness to the rock itself. Try to stem if you’re a stem master... But you’ll end up lay backing your way to the anchors on insecure feet and good to ok hands.

It’s suggested to climb the final pitch in normal top rope fashion belaying from the second pitch anchors, rather than belaying the following climber up from the third pitch anchors. This eliminates an awkward hanging belay in the crammed shady corner where the third pitch anchors are located. Lower the following climber safely back to the second pitch anchors through the fixed anchors of pitch 3. 2 more rappels are required to safely return to the ground.

Location

Located to the right of the Honey Pot on the Picnic Lunch Wall.

Protection

Bolts. Quicklinks at all 3 rap stations and fixed anchors at the 3rd pitch anchor station.

Photos

Chris Hatzai
Bend, Oregon
  5.11c
Chris Hatzai   Bend, Oregon
  5.11c
Quickdraws are up at all 3 anchors stations until I can go back and install fixed steel gear! Please leave em up for the next climber to get down!!! Jan 21, 2018

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