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Teddy Bear's Picnic
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 143
votes
Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3 |
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Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 270 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Walan 1990 |
| Page Views: | 5,199 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug
Details
There are many closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Maybe three stars...
This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.
Pitch 1:
Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.
5.10c 100'
Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.
5.10 55'
Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to an anchor. The anchor is just above a huge partially detached flake/block that should be negotiated with care.
5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)
Rap the route in two single rope rappels.
This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.
Pitch 1:
Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.
5.10c 100'
Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.
5.10 55'
Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to an anchor. The anchor is just above a huge partially detached flake/block that should be negotiated with care.
5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)
Rap the route in two single rope rappels.
St. Augustine, Florida
Chad Oct 29, 2013
Sacramento, CA
You can get down Teddy Bear's Picnic with one rope but you'll have to make more than one rappel.
Chad Sep 5, 2014
If linking p2 and p3 into one, *definitely* bring a few sling draws. I didn't and the rope drag turned clipping and belaying my 2nd into their own workouts. Mar 27, 2015
Portland OR
I failed due to rope drag and only linked P1&P2. Then pitched out P3 which was very fun exposure and easy climbing. prob. 10a
If your going to link all three do one of the 2
A. Be a comfortable climber and skip the anchor bolt of P1 and also skip the 1st bolt on P2
B. Tie in to two 70M lines and after the anchor of P1 (only clipping the line on the left) switch to your 2nd rope only, clipping that one into the new bolt line that is further to the right.
I am going to link them next time, it is a rad way to start the day! Nov 20, 2015
Newcastle, WA
Christchurch, NZ
Bend, OR