Type: Sport, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Walan 1990
Page Views: 5,446 total · 34/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

Maybe three stars...

This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.

Pitch 1:
Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.
5.10c 100'

Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.
5.10 55'

Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to an anchor. The anchor is just above a huge partially detached flake/block that should be negotiated with care.
5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)

Rap the route in two single rope rappels.

Location

right side of the wall just left of Honey Pot.

Protection

draws and a couple long slings.

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This is the end of the airy traverse on the amazing third pitch. This is a super great route that not many people do all of.
This is the end of the airy traverse on the ama…
 2
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
 1
Mark finishing the first pitch of Teddy Bear's Picnic
Mark finishing the first pitch of Teddy Bear's…
 0
Teddy Bear
Teddy Bear
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13 Comments

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Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
  5.10c
I'm not sure of the actual length of this route but want to try leading it in one long pitch with a 70m. Think I'll make it? Apr 14, 2006
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
  5.10c
I linked the 3 pitches with a 70m makes for a great pitch! May 18, 2006
stj
 
stj  
 
The second pitch (link-up of 2 and 3) is one of my favorites in the park. Similar to Revelation, but with some hideous exposure--a key foothold in the crux is right on the edge, where the face cuts away from underneath you. I love it! If it was more convenient, it would be a very popular pitch. I think the consensus rating of 10b seems about right; the first pitch is tough for the 10a it gets in the guidebook, but I don't think it is 10c. First pitch is sustained, insecure knob crawling. Many parties just do the first pitch, and miss out on the great rock above. May 7, 2011
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
  5.10b
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
  5.10b
Awesome route! Gets sun all morning in the winter. I'd like to try it as one pitch with a 70m. Would be great endurance training. Dec 12, 2011
another Chad
another Chad  
Linking the pitches, I back-cleaned several bolts and used slings on a lot of the clips and the rope drag was still bad. This is one I'd definitely recommend breaking into two pitches (at the first anchor).

Chad Oct 29, 2013
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary? Sep 4, 2014
another Chad
another Chad  
"The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?

You can get down Teddy Bear's Picnic with one rope but you'll have to make more than one rappel.

Chad Sep 5, 2014
Erik Keever
Erik Keever  
Finally did 2nd part after 3-4 times on the first pitch. The position is amazing!

If linking p2 and p3 into one, *definitely* bring a few sling draws. I didn't and the rope drag turned clipping and belaying my 2nd into their own workouts. Mar 27, 2015
Timmy Deez
Portland OR
Timmy Deez   Portland OR
Just tried to link this in one pitch!!
I failed due to rope drag and only linked P1&P2. Then pitched out P3 which was very fun exposure and easy climbing. prob. 10a

If your going to link all three do one of the 2
A. Be a comfortable climber and skip the anchor bolt of P1 and also skip the 1st bolt on P2
B. Tie in to two 70M lines and after the anchor of P1 (only clipping the line on the left) switch to your 2nd rope only, clipping that one into the new bolt line that is further to the right.

I am going to link them next time, it is a rad way to start the day! Nov 20, 2015
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
If you're going for the OS and get worried about the old SMC first two bolts in the huecos know the glue ins start above there. I would bring some alpine draws for the 1st pitch, bolt line doesn't quite follow the climbing line due to hollow rock. Would be nicer without drag of short sport draws. Apr 17, 2017
Andrew Logerwell
 
Andrew Logerwell  
 
Super great route that you should try. I have been coming to Smith for decades and never thought to run up this one. Monkey Face, Wherever I may Roam et et are great routes but I ended up doing this on a crowded day because it was open and in the sun. Will put this on my list of favorite routes now. Oct 30, 2017
Leona Kadir
Christchurch, NZ
Leona Kadir   Christchurch, NZ
so so much fun so long as you like balancing on tiny nubbins with similar hand holds. really decent length route. loved it. Jul 24, 2018
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I got a little confused finishing P3, as there is a new two bolt belay and line of bolts for P3 of the neighboring route Sharing is Caring. When you hit the first set of anchor bolts (not rigged to rap) on P3, Teddy Bear's Picnic goes left past two bolts to an anchor that is a bit hidden (you need to lean out to see them). Sharing is Caring continues straight up the line of bolts. The anchor for TBP is rigged to rap and directly above the P2 top anchors. Worthy route. Nov 8, 2018