All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Teddy Bear's Picnic

Name: Teddy Bear's Picnic
Rating: 2.9

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Breathe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
	Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Driveway Gravel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Great Gig in the Sky, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	High Noon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
	Sharing is (open project) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Way Life Goes, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

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Type:	Sport, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Mark Walan 1990
Page Views:	9,041 total · 44/month
Shared By:	Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Maybe three stars...

This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.

Pitch 1:

Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.

5.10c 100'

Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.

5.10 55'

Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to a ledge. The anchors at this ledge are NOT for TBP - look up and to the left to see two more bolts following the arete to chain anchors above a smaller ledge (more in line with a rappel down to the first pitch anchors).

5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)

Rap the route in two single rope rappels.