Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Anglin 1983
Page Views: 2,056 total · 14/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

An easier variation start to the original pinic lunch wall route. Very Steep!

P1 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11c? - Retro Bolted into a sport route this pitch is now MUCH easier once A3+ and very heads up, now it can go free semi easily. Follow bolts to a clean low angle diheadral. Move up diheadral on gear make a short free move to bomber belay.
P2 - A2 - Mostly all original bolts with the occasional sawed off pin placement. Very steep. Ends at belay 2 on original Picnic Lunch Wall route.

P3-P5 Follow original Picnic Lunch Wall route to the top.

Location

To the right if the orignal route. Start atop blocks below massive routes.

Protection

Same as Picnic Lunch Wall.

Photos

Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
Ranger Matt   Yosemite NP
Bolts on 1st pitch very reachy if aiding this. I'm 6'4'' and I had trouble reaching.
1 60 barely raps off the 1st anchor.
Good pitch to practice aiding. Bring a mini cheat stick if you are short. Dec 16, 2013
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Pitch 1 goes free at 11d. 7 bolts or so to a gear protected corner ( corner is 5.10). Bring nuts and small cams up to finger size. Oct 20, 2015
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
One of the few sub-12 routes I have found in the area that stays dry in a light rain, this is very much worth a go. Pulling the roof is just the beginning, the slab above is sustained and interesting moves. Upper dihedral is much easier, fun and more exposed than it appears from the ground. Used small offset nuts and a red C3, not much else.

The final bolt before the dihedral might be a tough clip for anyone not able to reach it from the good foot ledge (under 6'??) a long stiffened draw or one of those Kong Frogs might do the trick. Mar 20, 2016