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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Adam Grosowsky, 1992, FFA unknown
Page Views: 1,696 total, 35/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on Nov 12, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

Five Easy Pieces is a worthwhile adventure on mostly good rock. With four pitches at 5.12 or harder, it's no gimme, but is generally well protected and is characterized by excellent moves on mostly impeccable rock. It's worth noting that this route has a lot of drilled holds, (like many routes at Smith) but is super fun to climb anyway.

Pitch 1: 13 bolts. Climb the heavily chalked and popular sport pitch. Instead of stopping where the chalk ends, climb past anchor onto a friable slab and take it to a different anchor at a great ledge. 5.12a

Pitch 2: 14 bolts. The crux. Step left on the ledge and make thin, but generally easy moves up the slab above. Increasingly difficult sequences interspersed with good rests end in a wild sequence on an overhanging shield of perfect rock. After clipping the intermediate anchor, commit to the funky crux above. (sadly on the worst rock on the pitch) A yellow-purple TCU sized piece would be handy for dogging this pitch. If rappelling, descend here. 5.13a

Pitch 3: Watts says 9 bolts. We found more. 10? It's easy to back clean higher and you'd be psyched to have some long runners on many of the bolts. Climb directly up off the belay and get established underneath a small overhang. A crux move getting over the bulge spits you out on a thin slab on beautiful rock. Traverse left into the obvious weakness. (scary for the follower) Just as the moves ease, the rock turns to total crap for 10' until you get established in the (bolted) hand crack which has surprisingly good rock. Follow this to an anchor. (Marginal. 5 historical 1/4 inch bolts) 5.12a

Pitch 4: 4 bolts. A short pitch. Watts says it's not any good, but despite a little choss at the start, it's good rock and fun to climb. Follow the bolts up and left to a large ledge. 5.10

Pitch 5: 7 bolts. If this were on the ground, it would get lapped constantly. There's nothing else at Smith like it. Steep, bouldery moves off the ledge lead to a thin crux moving through obviously drilled pockets. As the holds improve, the angle kicks even further back for a couple more bolts of steep, athletic movement and wild positions.

Walk down Misery Ridge Trail.

Location

3-4 switchbacks up the Misery Ridge Trail. Picnic Lunch Wall, right side.

Protection

14 draws.

Photos

Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
Finally tried this with Graham Zimmerman yesterday.

13a pitch was definitely really good and would be popular if it was on the ground. Felt reasonable for the grade. Some fixed QD's right now. Be nice if the anchor was moved up a right a bit so it is easier to stand on the small stance.

Pitch 3, the 12- is a bit funky and thought the bolts after the roof could get re worked a bit to make it safer for both the leader and follower. Was surprised at the lengths of the runout on the easy hand crack. It is definitely not that bad but more runout than I expected. A couple hand sized pieces would help. The anchor on top of this pitch should be replaced. I opted to clip the first bolt on the next pitch and then incorporated that bolt into the anchor.

Pitch 5 feels forced and is for sure chipped/drilled. Found it to be a bit easier than it looked though. Straightforward cranking.

We thought we'd try and rap the route but given the location of the anchor on top of P3 it would be a serious pain in the ass and a 70m probably wouldn't make it. If a rap anchor was installed on the big ledge arete feature 25ft below the current anchor it would be possible to rap and then would be straightforward. Feb 24, 2016
Couple thoughts so far, I've tried everything but the 3rd pitch so far

You can make it off the P2 belay ledge with a 70. The top of pitch 2 is the only hanging belay, the one for the last pitch is pretty nice. I heard that the last pitch is really hard, but it really isn't, and you have plenty of space to relax below it so trying it several times if you were trying to send the whole thing isn't out of the question. However, falling on the 12a pitches would really throw a wrench in your day.

The second pitch is pretty incredible, and would be one of the more popular 13a's in the park if it was at ground level. For me the trickiest move comes low down on the route with a very balancy and stretchy slab move. When the angle kicks back you make use of an arete, and nice rests before an amazing sequence on some gastons to pockets small and big. I thought the rock pulling the roof wasn't too bad, there are several options to do those moves but will probably be the toughest section of the whole route. You really can't break the pitch into two pitches if you want to go to the top, you would be pulling the roof right above the anchor, which really is just 2 bolts with regular hangers about 2.5 feet apart from each other (12c to here). Aiding those moves sucks because the gear is right in your face and could pop, offsets HIGHLY recommended (0/1 size in particular, then bring a metolius 2 & 3).

70M lets you TR the 2nd pitch and rap off the ledge, 60M probably wouldn't cut it for either of those tasks, and it looks like a 70M could rap the whole route. Feb 8, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Pitch 2 is indeed amazing. Sep 27, 2014