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Sharing is (open project)
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Breathe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Driveway Gravel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Great Gig in the Sky, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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High Noon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3 |
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Sharing is (open project) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way Life Goes, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | None |
| Page Views: | 570 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Dec 12, 2021 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is a route that got bolted years ago and has been sitting there untouched since being developed. A very strong, very tall local went up and sussed out the route but ultimately was uninspired to go back to work it. At the time he said he felt the crux was in the double digit range (v10-12 is what i remember him recommending).
The route is a 2 pitch route, climbing the first pitch of Sharing is Caring and then into the open project. The second pitch of Sharing is Caring and this route start pretty squeezed together. A few bolts into the start of the open project cut right onto welded tuff holds. Bomber rock. That solidified tuff that's slick to the touch.. Climb through the rad corner/traverse section moving up and right, do a mantel move and enter into the meat of the route. An overhung wide arete with sparse holds. The vision was for the climber to slap and claw up and over this chunk finishing on 5.10-5.11 slab terrain.
Sort of a one move wonder working with Really bad holds and a hard mantel over the lip is the feedback I got originally. Not the sustained 100' 5.14 masterpiece I remember my buddy wanting to invest time into. This thing is definitely not that.
It is a cool punchy route though that climbs on near perfect rock (Not counting the 1st pitch). There was hardly any cleaning on the whole thing from what I remember, excluding the final lip over moves near the anchors on the softer rock. The hard climbing is on perfect rock.
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