Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Dan Foote - FFA February 12, 1977 by Jeff Thomas and Willis Krause.
Page Views: 1,904 total, 18/month
Shared By: Drewsef on Feb 21, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

This route is super classic, some bolted face, long free climbing, some loose junk, a sweet finish and big ledges. Start as for Teddy Bear's picnic.
P1 - move up the huecos and step up into a shallow right-facing corner and then move up and left past a few bolts (10a) on small knobs and belay in a corner.
P2 - climb up and left over a small pinnacle and step down left to a nice ledge (this is a little funky but straight-forward and not hard).
P3 - get your head on and move up, passing on the left side of a huge hollow-sounding flake and into the overhanging section, move right past this (5.9) to belay on a small ledge.
P4 - jam up right in the clean, solid crack for the money pitch of the route (5.8), then follow the chimney to a big ledge.
P5 - two options a) climb straight up the face past bolts and join the wide crack at about mid-pitch b) get right into the big stuff and grunt your way through (both 5.9)

Walk off the back side. Beware there is a HUGE white owl living in the top of the chimney next to the P4 belay. If you choose to do the wide start to P5 you'll probably make friend or foe with this spooky avian creature! His pellets are all over the P4 chimney and you could mistake them for bear crap or some other large carnivore...sweet!

Protection

Gear - singles of smaller stuff a few doubles in hand to fist size.

Photos

Aashiq
Los Angeles, CA
Aashiq   Los Angeles, CA
On the second pitch traverse the leader can clip a permanent biner over the flake and can actually be lowered from here instead of down climbing al the way. The follower has the sketchy job on this pitch, but if the leader lowers the follower from the same permanent biner, the follower can clip a QuickDraw straight from their belay loop to the rope above them, preventing hem from swinging out, you can even pull a cross this line if you wish. Once in direct to the anchors the follower can untie and the rope can be pulled through. Don't risk down climbing this traverse. Sep 9, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The gear beta above is pretty much spot on. While there's looseness everywhere, really only the first pitch and the third pitch suck to climb. Higher up the rock that you have to touch improves dramatically. It's worth noting that the 3rd pitch is a traverse with some climbing up and down. In hindsight, this seems obvious, but I missed it despite reading the beta above and in the Watt's guide. Feb 20, 2015
Decided to just do the first pitch yesterday, as a last route of the day sort of thing just to check it out, a few thoughts:

1. This route is full of loose rock and friable flakes, and anything that comes off is likely to strafe the tourists/hikers on the misery ridge trail.

2. The climbing is sort of so-so, somewhat runout traversing.

3. Pitch is a full 35M. Ropestretcher! If you rap from the anchors with a 70M cord, the ends of your rope will be a couple inches off the deck, it barely makes it down. If you have a 60M rope, you won't be close to getting down in a single rap. In this case, make sure you don't miss switching to the Five Easy Pieces anchors.

Not my favorite pitch at Smith, but not without merit... kind of cool as a single pitch sport climb,but you will want to ensure you have a long enough rope (which I did - good) and also ensure there aren't a bunch of hikers below (which there were - bad) if you really want to enjoy it. May 20, 2013
This route has better rock quality than NE face of the main Smith group but is covered in turds. Enjoy the rusty angle above the P3 overhang that is covered in pigeon shit. The bolts are all relics you would not want to fall on from P2 to P4. Nic and I were hard pressed by this route because it is soo nasty and dirty but there is good climbing to be had. Any climbing team considering this routs should wear helmets and have the utmost respect for rockfall, you are launching missiles on to the switchbacks that all Misery Ridge hikers walk up. All in all a great experiance that I would recommend to someone who I don't like....

Edit from Nic: The best pitch had a bird carcass in it. May 31, 2012
Dan foote and an unknown friend put this route up. Dan is deceased as of 2009. Jun 7, 2011
Drewsef
 
Drewsef  
 
This route is super classic, some bolted face, long free climbing, some loose junk, a sweet finish and big ledges. Start as for Teddy Bear's picnic.
P1 - move up the huecos and step up into a shallow right-facing corner and then move up and left past a few bolts (10a) on small knobs and belay in a corner.
P2 - climb up and left over a small pinnacle and step down left to a nice ledge (this is a little funky but straight-forward and not hard).
P3 - get your head on and move up, passing on the left side of a huge hollow-sounding flake and into the overhanging section, move right past this (5.9) to belay on a small ledge.
P4 - jam up right in the clean, solid crack for the money pitch of the route (5.8), then follow the chimney to a big ledge.
P5 - two options a) climb straight up the face past bolts and join the wide crack at about mid-pitch b) get right into the big stuff and grunt your way through (both 5.9)

Walk off the back side. Beware there is a HUGE white owl living in the top of the chimney next to the P4 belay. If you choose to do the wide start to P5 you'll probably make friend or foe with this spooky avian creature! His pellets are all over the P4 chimney and you could mistake them for bear crap or some other large carnivore...sweet!

Gear - singles of smaller stuff a few doubles in hand to fist size. Feb 21, 2009