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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Bauman & Kim Schmitz Oct 21-22, 1969
Page Views: 3,189 total · 22/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

ADMIN NOTE: This line has been freed as of October 2015 at 5.12d. Please do not nail on this pitch anymore. Clean aid, or free climbing only out of respect to those that have now free'd this intense line.

Classic steep aid route at Smith, up a proud section of the Picnic Lunch Wall. Still pretty heads up, though there are lots of new bolts. This route has seen many bail probably more than have topped out.
P1 - A2+ - Start below a roof with a hook move. Follow pin scared crack past 3 bolts to botled anchor. I heard this pitch went clean, I still placed 2 beaks and a LA and thought it was heads up.
P2 - 5.6 A2 - Traverse under roof with the ocasional free move. Belay at anchor with tat, and many additional bolts.
P3 - 5.7 A3 - Head up on above the belay on bolts to diheadral, occasinal free move, belay at first set of new anchors.
P4 - A3 - Tricky aid with some bad bolts through the roof. Pass intermidate belay. And belay at brand new beley with rap rings just below edge of the roof.
P5 - 5.6 A2+ - More aid and bolts in diheadral to bolt ladder traverse on ancient bolts. Belay from 3 big new bolts on ledge.

Scramble up and off to the right. One tricky move to get off on slab above soft shoe balet. A rope might be nice here if youve got heavy loads, as there are 2 nice new bolts above this section.

Location

Proudest section of Picnic Lunch Wall

Protection

All aid gear to 3" large sawed angles are very helpful.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
5.7 C2+ PG13
bheller   SL UT
5.7 C2+ PG13
Kim Schmitz and Tom Bauman were Oregon's best climbing talents of their time. The boldness and commitment they assumed to pursue climbing on Oregon's first, and most impressive big wall showed their world-class abilities. The style they completed it in is equally impressive. Ground-up, in a push, 2 days on the wall, and a freezing night shivered away after a dropped sleeping bag. Knifeblades and 1/4" bolts in the softest of rock! Schmitz laments that the final traverse headed right for easier ground instead of continuing to the top of the wall, but after seeing the caked-on vertical cow shit that qualifies for "rock" on the uppermost headwall, It seems their choice to retreat to the rightmost ledge system could have saved their lives!

Out of respect to preserve such an awesome wall and honor such a solid acheivment, please refrain from further nailing on this wall! The pin-scars are already large enough- any further nailing is just destructive. In following the soft-rock ethics of better known aid destinations (Zion)aid ascents of this route should now see clean climbing only. 5.7 C2+ seems fair, with the aid crux coming right off the ground at the base of the wall. All the anchors, and many bolts have been upgraded as of July of 2010. No bolts have been added to the aid climbing, however, approx. 30 antique bolts have been replaced, and 16 un-needed bolts have been removed. A double rack to 4", sawed-off hand placed pegs, offset nuts, single stemmed cams, tri-cams, and a tent pole stick clip are your modern equipment needs if you would like to climb this wall. And you should climb this wall! This wall can be rappeled anywhere below the 5th pitch with some down clipping and 2 60m ropes. If you complete pitch 5- walk off down the Misery Ridge trail.

Go Clean, Go free, or Go home! :) Jul 10, 2010
bbauer  
Just climbed the first pitch. I thought it was C3 and the hardest placements were in the first 20 feet...a digger is definitely possible. The first couple moves off the bomber yellow alien/master cam are difficult and very soft. Soloists, there is a good hangerless bolt right near the dirt which can be equalized with a variety of other ok placements... Mar 8, 2014
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
I have no idea how to rate this on the aid scale, it is quite safe practically the whole way, but some hook moves and very sandy/marginal placements make for slow going.
P1 hard move off the ground, this pith has the longest continuous bolt-free section.
P2: Free it all the way to the final bolt ladder! The cam placements under the roof are VERY bad, but it's only 5.7
P3: mostly free/French free except the start and end.
P4: Free Variation to the right is quick and easy to French free, tricky gear between bolts to the anchor, the aid crux along with the first few feet of P1 10ish,
P5: very sandy, takes good nuts, bring some BD1-4 cams
Rack: 2-3 sets of cams to .5/#4 Metolius, BD.75-4 1-2 each, nuts & offset nuts, 1-2 hooks. I'm sure offset cams would crush it, I'm sure sawn angles or tri cams might be nice.
No need for pins, hammer or stick clip! Apr 29, 2014

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