All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Picnic Lunch Wall

Name: Picnic Lunch Wall
Rating: 2.5

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British A3

Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Breathe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
	Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Driveway Gravel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Great Gig in the Sky, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	High Noon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
	Sharing is (open project) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Way Life Goes, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

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Type:	Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Tom Bauman & Kim Schmitz Oct 21-22, 1969
Page Views:	5,208 total · 26/month
Shared By:	corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
Admins:	Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

ADMIN NOTE: This line has been freed as of October 2015 at 5.12d. Please do not nail on this pitch anymore. Clean aid, or free climbing only out of respect to those that have now free'd this intense line.

Classic steep aid route at Smith, up a proud section of the Picnic Lunch Wall. Still pretty heads up, though there are lots of new bolts. This route has seen many bail probably more than have topped out.
P1 - A2+ - Start below a roof with a hook move. Follow pin scared crack past 3 bolts to botled anchor. I heard this pitch went clean, I still placed 2 beaks and a LA and thought it was heads up.
P2 - 5.6 A2 - Traverse under roof with the ocasional free move. Belay at anchor with tat, and many additional bolts.
P3 - 5.7 A3 - Head up on above the belay on bolts to diheadral, occasinal free move, belay at first set of new anchors.
P4 - A3 - Tricky aid with some bad bolts through the roof. Pass intermidate belay. And belay at brand new beley with rap rings just below edge of the roof.
P5 - 5.6 A2+ - More aid and bolts in diheadral to bolt ladder traverse on ancient bolts. Belay from 3 big new bolts on ledge.

Scramble up and off to the right. One tricky move to get off on slab above soft shoe balet. A rope might be nice here if youve got heavy loads, as there are 2 nice new bolts above this section.