Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Bauman & Kim Schmitz Oct 21-22, 1969
Page Views: 3,771 total · 24/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 4, 2007
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

ADMIN NOTE: This line has been freed as of October 2015 at 5.12d. Please do not nail on this pitch anymore. Clean aid, or free climbing only out of respect to those that have now free'd this intense line.

Classic steep aid route at Smith, up a proud section of the Picnic Lunch Wall. Still pretty heads up, though there are lots of new bolts. This route has seen many bail probably more than have topped out.
P1 - A2+ - Start below a roof with a hook move. Follow pin scared crack past 3 bolts to botled anchor. I heard this pitch went clean, I still placed 2 beaks and a LA and thought it was heads up.
P2 - 5.6 A2 - Traverse under roof with the ocasional free move. Belay at anchor with tat, and many additional bolts.
P3 - 5.7 A3 - Head up on above the belay on bolts to diheadral, occasinal free move, belay at first set of new anchors.
P4 - A3 - Tricky aid with some bad bolts through the roof. Pass intermidate belay. And belay at brand new beley with rap rings just below edge of the roof.
P5 - 5.6 A2+ - More aid and bolts in diheadral to bolt ladder traverse on ancient bolts. Belay from 3 big new bolts on ledge.

Scramble up and off to the right. One tricky move to get off on slab above soft shoe balet. A rope might be nice here if youve got heavy loads, as there are 2 nice new bolts above this section.

Location

Proudest section of Picnic Lunch Wall

Protection

All aid gear to 3" large sawed angles are very helpful.

Photos