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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA w/ Preplaced gear Tim Garland and Logan Carr Oct 18 2015
Page Views: 4,375 total, 48/month
Shared By: bheller on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

What to Expect

Oregon's first big wall now offers great free-climbing to the top of Smith Rock's most intimidating wall. Expect a first rate soft-rock adventure that delivers 5 distinct pitches of mostly solid rock and protection. Hard cranking, mega-exposure, and surprisingly classic climbing will be encountered while scaling this Cathedral of mud. The ability to confidently climb on questionable rock over questionable gear is a pre-requisite.

Pitch 1: Polishing The Turd: The crux comes 12ft off the ground with an arguably un-protectable boulder problem that cranks a poor finger lock while surmounting an awkward roof (V4). Continue up banged-out peg scars that offer some pretty fun, and pumpy sport-type climbing and reasonably decent gear. Flow past a few bolts (redpoint crux) and then enter the ugly. A section of dirty, shattered rock, with a sweet guano fist jam through the worst rock encounteted on the whole wall. It was cleaned extensively, but how long do you spend polishing a turd? Skip the rap-hangers to the left of the crack, and above the rock and climbing improve considerably for the pitches' ending. Clip one historic pin (an angle, leave it for nostalgia!!!) and end at the great belay stance with updated, bomber anchors. 135' 5.12

Note: freed mid 1980's by Bob McGown the morning after a rageing wedding party. Alan Watts hid and watched from a distance to validate the ascent! 12a has crept to about 12c from repeated nailing- no more nailing!

Pitch 2: The Muddy Traverse: head straight right across the obvious shelf, clipping a couple of updated bolts, and then carefully placing cams that I would be nervous about hanging a hat on in the peg scars in the roof's underclings. Thankfully its only 5.7 here. When the foot shelf disappears and the exposure heightens, updated bolts appear for the clipping. The pitch culminates with the amazingly exposed "Lose Your Lunch" boulder problem that cranks the air fantastic with 200ft of massive overhangs tugging you toward the Crooked River below. Strange how its not too far off the ground here, but the unique geometry of the wall is such that it doesn't get much more exposed than this! Commiting, explosive and nauseating- unforgettable! (v5/6) Pass a couple more updated aidin' bolts to another sweet b-lay stance. 85ft traverse 5.12d

Pitch 3: The Clean Corner: Looking at this section of rock from the ground below, I would have sworn this was going to be a vision quest pitch-au contraire! Nice creamy stone (like on Monkey Face), plenty of bolts and a bit of gear see you through a great pitch of fingerlocks, stemming, and arête grabbing. Crux comes at the end with taxing stems in a precarious position. Carefully place gear here and avoid the ledge fall. Another ending at a sweet little belay stance with rap hangers. 70' 5.12

Pitch 4: The Airy Vari. to the High Tech Corner: On this pitch, the corner immediately above the belay was mostly an aid bolt ladder, and the pin scars that did exist were worthless powder, so I did what any free climber would do: I found a variation :) Climb right from the belay onto the purple/red face with some cryptic and delicate climbing on cool features that protects with 4 added bolts and don't affect the original aid line in any way. Rejoin the corner about 30 feet higher. The corner is clean, hard stone, with cerebral stemming, technical footwork, and cranker 1 finger locks in pin scars. A couple of beautifully updated bomber bolts are your buddies here, but the crux is still protected with natural gear that has to be placed when the heat is turned way up high. Don't expect a picnic. Power and finesse your way up to the 4 foot roof above, pull the roof into the above corner (redpoint crux)and then traverse right on some beautiful red stone to a semi... well, mostly hanging belay with ASCA hangers (updated in 2007 by Jim Anglin, Cody Peterson and ?). The belay was likely placed here under a little overlap to protect the belayer from any potential falling rock, and still allow visual contact with the leader for the final pitch. 75' 5.12d

Pitch 5: The Dead End Corner to the The Mud Butt Traverse: Decipher a section of 5.11 past a couple of updated bolts, and then reach a surprisingly clean crack in the right-facing corner that protects well and clocks in at about 5.10d. Natural gear for 60 feet or so, and then right when the rock starts to turn evil, its time to get off this wall- traverse right for 25' on a very technical and delicate muddy face of knobs and crimps- a casually exposed 500 feet off the ground. Don't shit your pants! Four 1/2" by 8" bomber glue-in bolts have replaced their ancestors on this traverse. Sneak around the corner to a belay in the trough. 100' 5.12a- You just climbed the Picnic Lunch Wall!

This wall was equipped for free climbing by myself, with help and hardware donations from Ryan Lawson and bolt hanger donations from Metolius. No bolts were added to the aid line. 21 bolts were replaced, many un-needed junk bolts were removed, and the anchors have all been updated. This wall should never again be nailed. Go free, go clean, or go home:)


The pin scars eat nuts like a...squirrel? At a minimum take a set of nuts and double up on the medium sizes. Doubles of cams from tips to hand size, one big hands size cam. Many draws and many slings. A 60 meter rope works perfect but some back- clipping is required should you need to rap and bail. Worst case scenario you can fix a single 60m and retreat from the top of pitch 2 rapping the single line.


The route begins left of center at the base of the tallest section of the Picnic Lunch wall. A right-leaning seam with banged out peg holes and a roof at about 10 feet marks the start. From the top of pitch 5, scramble right and up for a 4th/5th class exposed gully finish. Decend down the Misery Ridge Trail.


Funny story about me hiding and watching McGown on the first pitch. Totally untrue, but funny nonetheless. Aug 12, 2016
wayne wallace
wayne wallace   Seattle
Ok enough ball-licking. Nice job!! That Bob was so drunk when I belayed him up that first pitch. I had no idea Alan was hiding and watching. We tried to free it after that and it was so scary back then!! Nice job guys and congrats on a wild FFA for sure. Nov 23, 2015
Jon, I would caution you about commenting on things you know very little about. I never “lifted” Brad’s photo for a blog. That photo was taken by Garret Gladden who I worked with long ago at the Sisters School District. Do not assume you understand my actions or demeanor on Sunday when we came down from the route. You and Brad obviously misread a few things. Brad asked me how the route went. I gave him a thumbs up and said it was a great route. I was not then, nor am I now ashamed in any way about our ascent. I didn’t discuss anything further, because I was pissed at the time that Brad, a well versed climber, would fix lines up a route that he knew was being currently worked on. There was also duct tape placed on a crucial hold on the third pitch crux to “protect the rope.” I had just battled through five difficult pitches where we had to unclip and zig zag around a fixed line on every pitch but the first. Climbing dirty, hard, 5.12 trad while dealing with the mess of fixed lines on every pitch was not an ideal way of sending the route.
So be very careful not to assume someone’s demeanor when you have no idea my personality. I felt at the time that getting into this with Brad would not be helpful or discussed in a calm manner so I choose not to start an argument.
I am not going to post anything further as I find these forums create more problems than they resolve. I would be happy at any time to sit down, buy Brad a beer, and discuss this as adults rather than sling mud in an online forum. I hope that we do so. Oct 21, 2015
If Tim really wanted the FA he would have just done it several years ago. After all it is only 5.12. He started working it this year without knowing Brad was coming to town to work on it. It is prime season, he had a partner lined up and just wanted to climb the route.

Tim was in the process of sending the route over 2 weekends. Tim and Logan climbed around the fixed ropes and re-hang many of the directionals. Oct 21, 2015
Brad never specifically asked anyone to stay off of the route. Tim posted a blog about the route in 2012 noting that 'a visiting climber cleaned and replaced the bolts', and he lifted Brad's photo in the post without referencing him at all. He also said he didn't know if it had been done yet, and that he didn't care if he was first to climb it. Obviously he did care that he was first to climb it otherwise he wouldn't have acted how he did on Sunday. He had an opportunity to thank the route establisher for placing and replacing the 21 bolts, anchors, and establishing the free variation on P4 (closer to 40 bolts overall) on Sunday, but he didn't say a single word to Brad at the base. To me that speaks a lot.

I've been up there and free'd about 50% of the route, and its definitely a one-of-a-kind route. Apart from the last pitch, your never climbing without a bolt being within 20 feet or so, its exhilarating and safe. The best thing that could happen to the route is for it to get 2-3 ascents in a single season so that the beta can be shared and more extremely talented travelers and locals will test themselves on the route. I've walked past that wall hundreds of times and dreamed about climbing it and to be honest, the way it went down in the last two weeks has diminished my dream.

Tim's post:… Oct 21, 2015
The route description from 2010 made it sound like the route had been free climbed and was opened to climb. I was confused about it and raised the question in 2011, whether the route had been free climbed. Publicly there was never a reply to my question. The route description posted made it sound like it had been free climbed or was an open project, since there was so much detail about the route. The tone of the description encouraged people to climb it. There was never a red tag at the start of the route. If this was a “closed project”, someone should have replied to my April 5, 2011 inquiry. If it was a “closed project” there should have been a red tag at the start.

Tim had gotten on this route a couple years ago and freed all pitches except the last one. Finding partners for the route can be hard. Finally Tim suckered Logan into checking it out. They were out there the previous weekend and worked on it. On Saturday the following weekend, Logan went out to work on the first two pitches, with the intent of sending it with Tim on Sunday. Yes they got an early start, but that is just wise planning with a multi-pitch route, with difficult climbing and the days are getting shorter.

There was not a “willful and intentional” act to steal the route. They were already in the process of climbing the “open project” which just happened to coincide with the fact that Brad arrived in town the second weekend they were working on it. The window for good conditions is pretty small since the wall is closed in the spring for falcons, summer is crazy hot and winter is frigid with short days.

We can argue how long to have a closed project, but the two factors I would consider is length of time and how much the person is actually working on it. A year or two would be a long time, but if someone was really working hard to send it and putting in a lot of time and effort, then I would respect it. But over 5 years by someone who only spends a couple weeks a year on it and posts a full route description on the internet without saying it is a closed project is a bit much.

Good job Tim and Logan. Keep working on it Brad, it will feel good to get it done. It is a proud line. Oct 21, 2015
Agree with Ryan. Five years is way too long to think nobody is going to touch your project.

Go out and try and find someone in the community, climbing, professional or otherwise that has a single bad thing to say about Logan or Tim. They are both stand up individuals and I don't think you will find anyone to say otherwise.

Go do the route and get the 2nd ascent. Seems like the thing to do if you really like to climb and the route is as good as your original description from 2010.

Ian Y Oct 20, 2015
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
You've been working this for FIVE years. That's a bit more than the 'spread over several months' Watts mentions. Im sure a lot of that was very sporadic, but still. That's way too long to have something redtagged. Plus it sounds like this might have been over your head. Im sure a lot of your motivation is gone now, but if you were to go up there and actually do the thing, Id be bit more sympathetic. Oct 20, 2015
bheller   SL UT
FFA Tim Garland and Logan Carr- two experienced Smith Rocks locals who willfully and intentionally (1st degree route theivery) showed up early on a Sunday morning, pulled our fixed ropes out of the way, clipped our in-situ gear, and redpointed the route while we watched from the base in disbelief.

The following is taken verbatim from Alan Watts' guidebook found under the Smith Rock Ethics section page 45:

First Ascent Considerations- First Ascent Etiquette:

Climbers preparing new routes at Smith Rock earn the right to make the first ascent of their project. The complete preparation might take days of work; when others don't respect this right, it takes away much of the motivation for doing new lines in the first place. High-level routes sometimes require dozens of attempts, spread over several months, before a redpoint ascent. As long as you're actively pursuing a project, it should remain yours to finish. This might seem like a purely ego-based restriction, but the reality goes beyond this. Most climbers simply lose interest in preparing new lines when others are waiting in the shadows to nab the free ascent. This was a huge issue in the early 1990's- route thievery became so rampant that the most prolific climbers simply stopped preparing new lines. As much as any other factor, this marked the end of Smith's reign as America's dominant sport crag. Oct 20, 2015
Has this been free climbed? The description makes it appear that it has been free climbed but there is no FA listed. There are conflicting rumors.... please set the record straight. Apr 5, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This sounds awesome!

Any hope that it will clean up significantly after a few seasons, or is it always going to have flaking/muddy/kitty litter sections? Jul 15, 2010
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Damn Brad, nice work!! Jul 12, 2010