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Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch)
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall
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Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Breathe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Driveway Gravel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Great Gig in the Sky, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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High Noon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3 |
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Sharing is (open project) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way Life Goes, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Alan Watts, May 14, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,298 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This excellent crack at the base of the sweeping Picnic Lunch Wall was at one time the hardest free route at Smith Rock. Twelve days later, Unfinished Symphony was usurped by the arching Midnight Snack (only a few hundred feet to the left) at 12b/c, but the line remains an enjoyable testpiece for tradsters & history buffs alike.
Begin with easy moves up big, incut flakes, and continue with easy stemming. The difficulty increases with height, as the stems become more awkward and the footholds less secure. After clipping a fixed angle, an awkward rest is possible in the shallow corner. The crux hits as the angle kicks back and the offset switches from left-facing to right-facing. A few key faceholds will prove useful, or jam the flaring pinscars to reach a good ledge at the anchor.
Begin with easy moves up big, incut flakes, and continue with easy stemming. The difficulty increases with height, as the stems become more awkward and the footholds less secure. After clipping a fixed angle, an awkward rest is possible in the shallow corner. The crux hits as the angle kicks back and the offset switches from left-facing to right-facing. A few key faceholds will prove useful, or jam the flaring pinscars to reach a good ledge at the anchor.
Location
On the main portion of the Picnic Lunch Wall there are three prominant arching cracks. Unfinished Symphony begins up the right-most of these arches, but heads straight up where the arch begins to break left. This is also the first major crack left of Five Easy Pieces, and right of Coleslaw & Chemicals.
Note, this route is the first pitch of the A3 aid climb by the same name.
Note, this route is the first pitch of the A3 aid climb by the same name.
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