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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Sharing is Caring S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Alan Watts, May 14, 1982
Page Views: 1,451 total · 12/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

This excellent crack at the base of the sweeping Picnic Lunch Wall was at one time the hardest free route at Smith Rock. Twelve days later, Unfinished Symphony was usurped by the arching Midnight Snack (only a few hundred feet to the left) at 12b/c, but the line remains an enjoyable testpiece for tradsters & history buffs alike.

Begin with easy moves up big, incut flakes, and continue with easy stemming. The difficulty increases with height, as the stems become more awkward and the footholds less secure. After clipping a fixed angle, an awkward rest is possible in the shallow corner. The crux hits as the angle kicks back and the offset switches from left-facing to right-facing. A few key faceholds will prove useful, or jam the flaring pinscars to reach a good ledge at the anchor.

Location

On the main portion of the Picnic Lunch Wall there are three prominant arching cracks. Unfinished Symphony begins up the right-most of these arches, but heads straight up where the arch begins to break left. This is also the first major crack left of Five Easy Pieces, and right of Coleslaw & Chemicals.

Note, this route is the first pitch of the A3 aid climb by the same name.

Protection

2 bolts, 1 Fixed pin, RPs, stoppers, & finger-sized cams.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12b
Unfortunately a new route to the left squeezes this line a bit near the top. It also appears (speculation) that this new line features a number of chipped holds, which can serve as footholds on Unfinished Symphony for climbers with long legs. Mar 16, 2009
I hope that the holds aren't chipped. If so, that's incredibly lame. I know the rock on that wall isn't always the best, but come on. I don't think there's any justification for blatantly manufacturing holds these days, but chipping within reach of an established route is inexcusable. Particularly at a place like Smith where there are several hundred climbs you could do at just about any grade from 10a to 13+. I would hope this is an isolated incident and that new routes at Smith aren't being put up with an "anything goes" mentality. May 15, 2009
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Fun route! I thought the liebacking past the second bolt was as hard as the upper crux. I'd say the real crux is hanging out to place gear that you feel good about climbing above in the soft rock. Pretty approachable movement-wise for Smith Rock 12b. (as compared to Full Magic Light, Energy Crisis, Latest Rage, Watt's Totts, Vision, et. al.)

The bolts are overdue for an update. Also the fixed pin seems like it could get removed given that it gets clipped in the middle of the first crux and you're not very far above the bolt to begin with. (Spoiler: you can also place way better gear 4 inches above it) Mar 18, 2017

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