Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch)
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Alan Watts, May 14, 1982|
|Page Views:||1,389 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009|
|Admins:||Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details
There are many closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
DescriptionThis excellent crack at the base of the sweeping Picnic Lunch Wall was at one time the hardest free route at Smith Rock. Twelve days later, Unfinished Symphony was usurped by the arching Midnight Snack (only a few hundred feet to the left) at 12b/c, but the line remains an enjoyable testpiece for tradsters & history buffs alike.
Begin with easy moves up big, incut flakes, and continue with easy stemming. The difficulty increases with height, as the stems become more awkward and the footholds less secure. After clipping a fixed angle, an awkward rest is possible in the shallow corner. The crux hits as the angle kicks back and the offset switches from left-facing to right-facing. A few key faceholds will prove useful, or jam the flaring pinscars to reach a good ledge at the anchor.
LocationOn the main portion of the Picnic Lunch Wall there are three prominant arching cracks. Unfinished Symphony begins up the right-most of these arches, but heads straight up where the arch begins to break left. This is also the first major crack left of Five Easy Pieces, and right of Coleslaw & Chemicals.
Note, this route is the first pitch of the A3 aid climb by the same name.