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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: F.A. Tedd Thompson, F.F.A. Darius Azin
Page Views: 1,570 total, 15/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

This route is really fun and unique for Smith, featuring both slopers and xenoliths. The first three bolts feature some surprisingly long moves between sloping holds. The whole middle part of the route travels through relatively easy juggy terrain. The first six bolts probably rate in around 11d.

Immediately after clipping the sixth bolt the climbing gets increasingly harder. The last nubbiny crux is probably around V6/7. The difficulty continues all the way to the very last move. Hope you're good at pinching/underclinging/mantling nubbins.

Location

The eye catching sport climb right of the leftward arcing crack (Pubic Luau)

Protection

Seven bolts Plus Anchors

Photos

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Fred Gomez  
 
Yeah. You're probably right. My perception of boulder grades was really skewed at the time. V6/V7 is probably more appropriate. Sep 25, 2017
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
I have to say I completely disagree with the descriptions suggestion of V4/5 for the final sequence. The crux on this took more figuring out than any other 5.13 I've done and in my opinion is probably more like V6/7. The bottom of the route is really fun, but that crux is heinous! Sep 24, 2017