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Routes in (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Appian Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big R, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Black Friday S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Bubbas In Bondage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Lunch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Highway 97 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honey Pot S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Siesta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picnic Lunch Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3
Snack Attack S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spartacus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starvation Fruit S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Suicidal Tendencies S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Touch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Veteran, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Voyage of the Cowdog S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, Mark Chapman, 1987
Page Views: 926 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Picnic Lunch Wall Routes Closed Feb-Aug Details

Description

Spartacus is a quality route, with sustained difficulty and mostly excellent rock. Begin with an unusual move to a large fang. Undercling the fang and move left to a good sloper. Mantle the subtle ledge, then up to killer knobs under the shallow roof. Moving past this roof & the third bolt is the crux. A pair of good edges up & left lead to a vertical slot in a shallow seam, and a few more tenous moves to get established above the roof.

Once above the roof, continue up rounded flakes & quintessential Smith knobs, past a few large pockets towards the top of the wall. The rock deteriorates substantially near the top. Several fractured blocks guard the finishing mantle.

Location

Immediately right of Appian Way, and the next route left of La Siesta.

Protection

Bolts. Stick clip recommended. The 2-bolt anchor is high and to the right of the climb.

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