Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,839 total · 25/month
Shared By: Gavin Ferguson on May 30, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in. You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet. Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located. There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.


Desire is located a short distance to the right of "Layaway Plan" and to the left of "Slice and Dice". You can see the anchors up on the slab to the right of the crack.


3=#5 friends, 3=#6 friends; There are two biners on the anchor to clip


James Beissel
Boulder, CO
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
This is a great route to practice hand/fist stacking technique.

Once you get up about 15' the crack becomes wide enough to get your knee in. The first 10' are really the crux #4 (purple) Camalot. After that it is #4.5 (red) Camalot or #5 C4. Cruiser! Two are enough if you walk them, three would be perfect and four would probably be overkill. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the final chimney moves to the anchor. Nov 26, 2006
JoergB   Germany
Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way. Oct 14, 2009
Jamie Henrichsen
Lake Morena, CA
Jamie Henrichsen   Lake Morena, CA

I got my knee stuck pretty good after the pod. My pants bunched up around the knee and I cut the pants into shorts to get loose. Good hand-fist stacks and cupped out butterflies for me. Pretty tight for a knee crack on me though. Apr 23, 2012
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
One of the better "beginner OWs" at the Creek. 3-4 pieces in the "new 5 camalot" range and maybe one larger piece (new 6 or old 5) should be enough. Can be TR'd after rapping off of Layaway Plan. Sep 30, 2012
The Great State -Colorado
CanDillo   The Great State -Colorado
Super solid stacks for 70 ft. 1-#4 and 3-#5's did it for me. Once you could use a C4 #6 , it was not even worth placing. Sep 15, 2013
Had some trouble navigating the top of this route. After pulling through the initial steepness on excellent knees and stacking the crack on the left opens up into what looks like an unprotectable chimney. Stepping up and rocking in is committing, but it's both easily climbable with excellent feet and protectable with a #5 or 6 in there. Easy climbing with no chimney technique necessary takes you to the chains on the upper slab. Good fun! Mar 23, 2015