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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,524 total, 25/month
Shared By: Gavin Ferguson on May 30, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in. You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet. Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located. There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.

Location

Desire is located a short distance to the right of "Layaway Plan" and to the left of "Slice and Dice". You can see the anchors up on the slab to the right of the crack.

Protection

3=#5 friends, 3=#6 friends; There are two biners on the anchor to clip
Had some trouble navigating the top of this route. After pulling through the initial steepness on excellent knees and stacking the crack on the left opens up into what looks like an unprotectable chimney. Stepping up and rocking in is committing, but it's both easily climbable with excellent feet and protectable with a #5 or 6 in there. Easy climbing with no chimney technique necessary takes you to the chains on the upper slab. Good fun! Mar 23, 2015
CanDillo
The Great State -Colorado
  5.10
CanDillo   The Great State -Colorado
  5.10
Super solid stacks for 70 ft. 1-#4 and 3-#5's did it for me. Once you could use a C4 #6 , it was not even worth placing. Sep 15, 2013
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
One of the better "beginner OWs" at the Creek. 3-4 pieces in the "new 5 camalot" range and maybe one larger piece (new 6 or old 5) should be enough. Can be TR'd after rapping off of Layaway Plan. Sep 30, 2012
Jamie Henrichsen
Lake Morena, CA
Jamie Henrichsen   Lake Morena, CA

I got my knee stuck pretty good after the pod. My pants bunched up around the knee and I cut the pants into shorts to get loose. Good hand-fist stacks and cupped out butterflies for me. Pretty tight for a knee crack on me though. Apr 23, 2012
JoergB
Germany
 
JoergB   Germany
 
Really nice training offwidth. The knee is good jamming nearly all the time, hand-fist stack and arm bar work both. Difficult is only the steeper lower part, when this ends it becomes easy. One #5 was enough for me, more gear just gets in the way. Oct 14, 2009
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
This is a great route to practice hand/fist stacking technique.

Once you get up about 15' the crack becomes wide enough to get your knee in. The first 10' are really the crux #4 (purple) Camalot. After that it is #4.5 (red) Camalot or #5 C4. Cruiser! Two are enough if you walk them, three would be perfect and four would probably be overkill. Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the final chimney moves to the anchor. Nov 26, 2006