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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: D. Bloom, 2002
Page Views: 7,837 total · 46/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is right at the end of the approach trail. There is a slot here formed by a right and left facing corner. The right facing corner (left climb), is Rochambeau; the left facing corner (right climb) is Fuzz.

The first pitch is a good warmup with solid jams and many ledges for the feet.

Protection

Mostly hands.

Photos

Vince MacMillan
Dolores, CO
 
Vince MacMillan   Dolores, CO
 
Take note: the top 35 feet of this is an entirely detached flake hinged on an 8 inch wide ledge. Body weight certainly isn't pulling it off, but you don't need a PhD in Gravitational Geology (er, something) to see that this thing is coming down on its own and soon (geologically speaking). Feb 6, 2006
Braxtron
...
  5.9-
Braxtron   ...
  5.9-
Fun climbing that is easier than it looks from the ground. There is a large chockstone wedged in the crack that won't be there forever. It's not too loose yet (as of 04/08). May 5, 2008
El-Cisco
Denver, Colorado
 
El-Cisco   Denver, Colorado
 
Great climb, it would be a great first lead. It has a lot of rests. Good features outside the crack. It takes gear well. Oct 27, 2008
Its not a gimme climb, you still have to motor in some spots. The climb is pretty good but it's not a very asthetic line and it was kinda sandy in there. Most of the rests are pretty good. Dec 3, 2008
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
FA - D. Bloom 2002 Feb 16, 2011
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
the start was surprisingly difficult for the grade. this would be a good intro desert lead as there are a lot of good stances to work with. noted vince's point above. the rock sounds solid, but doesn't have much support. wouldn't be surprised to find this route 'missing' in the future. Oct 25, 2011
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
 
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
 
There's a loose block about 8 feet up - not sure if it is what the previous poster was talking about. It's got an X on it. Easy to get around it, though. Nov 28, 2011
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Climbed the 2nd pitch of this (5.11) and took it to the rim. I would recommend bringing a #4 and #5 (or maybe a #6 instead?) for the 10 feet of wide slot (don't worry there are some face holds, so no heinous offwidthing required) and a blue tcu for right after. Most of the 2nd pitch is quite good but it was a bit sandy when I did it. I continued to the top and belayed off a juniper in one monster pitch that included pretty easy but tiring groveling up poor rock at the rim. It would be a really nice pitch if someone put anchors at the end of the small roof. In the meantime rap the Host in 3 raps with a 60 (and new webbing...), but watch out because the first station is hanging and around a corner. A 70 will not reach from the rap tree on the rim to the top of the Host without about 10 feet of sketchy downclimbing. Mar 23, 2014

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