Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: D. Bloom, 2002
Page Views: 7,930 total · 46/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This climb is right at the end of the approach trail. There is a slot here formed by a right and left facing corner. The right facing corner (left climb), is Rochambeau; the left facing corner (right climb) is Fuzz.

The first pitch is a good warmup with solid jams and many ledges for the feet.


Mostly hands.


Vince MacMillan
Dolores, CO
Vince MacMillan   Dolores, CO
Take note: the top 35 feet of this is an entirely detached flake hinged on an 8 inch wide ledge. Body weight certainly isn't pulling it off, but you don't need a PhD in Gravitational Geology (er, something) to see that this thing is coming down on its own and soon (geologically speaking). Feb 6, 2006
Braxtron   ...
Fun climbing that is easier than it looks from the ground. There is a large chockstone wedged in the crack that won't be there forever. It's not too loose yet (as of 04/08). May 5, 2008
Denver, Colorado
El-Cisco   Denver, Colorado
Great climb, it would be a great first lead. It has a lot of rests. Good features outside the crack. It takes gear well. Oct 27, 2008
Its not a gimme climb, you still have to motor in some spots. The climb is pretty good but it's not a very asthetic line and it was kinda sandy in there. Most of the rests are pretty good. Dec 3, 2008
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
FA - D. Bloom 2002 Feb 16, 2011

the start was surprisingly difficult for the grade. this would be a good intro desert lead as there are a lot of good stances to work with. noted vince's point above. the rock sounds solid, but doesn't have much support. wouldn't be surprised to find this route 'missing' in the future. Oct 25, 2011
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
There's a loose block about 8 feet up - not sure if it is what the previous poster was talking about. It's got an X on it. Easy to get around it, though. Nov 28, 2011
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Climbed the 2nd pitch of this (5.11) and took it to the rim. I would recommend bringing a #4 and #5 (or maybe a #6 instead?) for the 10 feet of wide slot (don't worry there are some face holds, so no heinous offwidthing required) and a blue tcu for right after. Most of the 2nd pitch is quite good but it was a bit sandy when I did it. I continued to the top and belayed off a juniper in one monster pitch that included pretty easy but tiring groveling up poor rock at the rim. It would be a really nice pitch if someone put anchors at the end of the small roof. In the meantime rap the Host in 3 raps with a 60 (and new webbing...), but watch out because the first station is hanging and around a corner. A 70 will not reach from the rap tree on the rim to the top of the Host without about 10 feet of sketchy downclimbing. Mar 23, 2014
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
This is fuuun. I didn't find the start hard, and was able to rest after nearly every move. There are great foot ledges the whole way, and even some crimps up high! ...Just don't pull too hard on them.

Gear beta:
Save a #3 for the top. Dec 11, 2018