Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alan the Brit
Page Views: 13,523 total · 85/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This route is found just to the left of Layaway Plan and cannot be mistaken since the name says it all. The first 20 feet is the meat of the climb, just insert your leg and start stackin. The rest of the climb is only about 5.8 but you need to walk the #5 for a bit and beware of the serrating edge.


Camalots-(2) #4's, (2) #4.5"s, (1) #5. I used one of the #4's at the beginning and found a crappy placement for the other near the top. It might be better to leave a #4 and take another #5, except that you have to lug the boat anchor then.
m-earle   USA
I had one #6 wild country, which i wakled from the start of the serrator for 20'. after that, the crack becomes too big for the last 15'-20' or so. it would be nice to have two #6 cams; its a little scary being 60' off the deck with basicaly one cam between you and a ground fall. Apr 23, 2007
Gotta give credit to Alan the Brit for putting this one up in 2002? Sep 10, 2007
Ol Toby
Ol Toby   CA
Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves. May 11, 2009
JoergB   Germany
Difficulty is to get over the constriction a the start, and the next meter where still the knee does not fit. Once it fits in, the thing is fun. Oct 14, 2009
A great primer for Big Guy. If running it out at the end, as seems to be the common practice, be ready for one more spot of fear before reaching the chains. The top of the flake is fractured, forming a big perched block that you have to pull on to finish. It's probably stable enough for some time to come, but terrifying to think about while monkeying around on the thin, hollow thing with no pro in sight below. Apr 1, 2012
Patrick O'Neil
Santa Clara, CA
Patrick O'Neil   Santa Clara, CA
I've never downgraded a route yet in the 3+ years I've been climbing, and generally think that it's douchey to do so. That being said, after doing OWs in the valley, it feels charitable to rate this thing any harder than .10-. Color me a douche. Oct 29, 2013
This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c). Apr 1, 2014
Jikimika Dinglehoffer   Lander, Wy
no-one cares what this would be rated in the valley. Because it's not the valley, it's the desert. Friction, environment, geometry, everything is different. The only thing more pointless than discussing grades is comparing grades in areas thousands of miles apart. Oct 21, 2017