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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,732 total, 67/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an awesome tight hands, right-facing, varnished corner. It is immediately right of the obvious Serrator Crack, and 100 yards left of Way Rambo.

Climb a short wide section to a rest ledge, fire up to a second rest before a bulge, through the bulge up into the roof. Undercling or jam the roof for 12 feet, turn the corner and fire up to the anchors.

Awesome!

Protection

Camalots:
1 ea. 0.4
1 ea. 0.75
6 ea. #1
2 ea. #2
1 ea. #3
A. Wolaver
Golden, CO
  5.11
A. Wolaver   Golden, CO
  5.11
This route is simply georgous and relatively unviolated. The best strategy for keeping all you cams is to place a great #1 camelot at the rest in the beginning of the roof then chug to the anchors. Nov 26, 2010
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Camhead, thank your friend Kevin for anchor replacement. I was excited to see them recently as I was expecting the old rat nest. I too, found that by using short quickdraws on all my pieces under the roof I was able to avoid having my rope smash the cams deep into the abyss, thus making any runout unnecessary. Awesome line. May 15, 2008
Chris Strouthopoulos
Durango, Co
Chris Strouthopoulos   Durango, Co
Follow the above advice about not putting in a cam above the lip of the roof. I was super pumped by the time I got there and fired one in a few feet above the lip on the vertical section. It's still there, a good 3 feet into the crack (we couldn't even get to it with a v-threader that a buddy happened to have in his pack). Don't make my mistake. Although it's a bit run out, keep firing to the anchor.

SUPERB line. Highly recommended. Nov 16, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
3/13/07, my friend Kevin replaced the anchors on this route. Much needed; it's incredible that so many folks have climbed and TR'd on the formerly mank anchors. Mar 13, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
If you place a piece at the lip of the roof, it is very likley that, when you clip into the anchors and weight the rope, the rope will push the piece at the roof WAY up into the crack. I did this, and just barely got my gold camalot back out.

I suppose that the best way to avoid this would be to runner the lip piece, and then just make sure that the rope is out of the crack before you weight it. Oct 6, 2006
Brian Weinstein
  5.11d
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11d
A #2 fits perfectly at the lip of the roof, although that is the only goldie I placed. This is a striking route with three stained lines on the wingate just to the left. Sep 23, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
This is an awesome corner. I tried jamming most of the way to the roof but ended up in the "Layaway plan". There are some good rests. So you don't have to just chug the whole way. May 12, 2006