Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,036 total · 35/month
Shared By: Kevin Detlor on Mar 25, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

cool pody, flared flake that starts in a chimney and continues up and out. fun chimney/stemming moves for the first half of the route followed by some awkward cruxy moves on the flake.

Location

directly behind the off width "desire", in the chimney behind the pillar that slice and dice is on, just past the full chimney route "Closed Course".

Protection

finger to tight hands gear, could place a #4 Camelot in one of the pods

Photos

Rob Dillon  
 
FYI from the Closed Course entry:

Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks. Nov 19, 2010
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
fun and worth doing. good end-of-day-low-motivation sort of route. probably 5.9 or so to the first anchor. Oct 25, 2011
Chris Edmonds
Seattle, WA
Chris Edmonds   Seattle, WA
Rock quality might be suspect. Climbers gear blows causing him to deck - rockandice.com/climbing-acc… Aug 3, 2016
Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
 
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
 
This route is awesome! Don't skip this route because a random dude took a ground fall - from the way the article reads, the guy took a ground fall because he skipped much larger cam placements and opted to place small cams, which in turn blew.

The sew it up rack in order top to bottom (camalots):
3,2,1,2, 0.4, 1, 0.75, 0.75, 0.5 Oct 17, 2016
samwagner
Golden, CO
samwagner   Golden, CO
Just to clarify (since I am that guy that took the ground fall), the rock did break at each piece that pulled, the largest being 1" (I believe the article got the wrong color alien there). The other two were a .3 and green alien (which pulled first). Sure, bigger gear is better, unless the rock is still going to break. SLCDs create outward force on rock when loaded, which is also what holds them in the crack, unless placed in a strange position or bad rock. My situation was both. I could have used runners to move the direction of fall more parallel with the direction of placement and also would have been wise to double up my placements to take some of the force out of the equation. The route is cool, but don't take rock quality for granted when you could potentially blow the moves like I did. Hoping to get back to the creek soon and climb this beauty. Maybe with that bigger gear that Bert suggested. Even if the rock would still break, at least it inspires confidence. Definitely using runners and some back up pieces. Or I could just not fall. Mar 16, 2017
Steve Skarvinko
SLC, UT
Steve Skarvinko   SLC, UT
Anchor didn't have any cord / must have been replaced w new hardware as of Nov. 25th, 2017. Fun start with an interesting ending! Dec 8, 2017