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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 4,946 total, 34/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 27, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb on the left side of Way Rambo Wall. It is best found by locating the 'wide' climb Way Nutter, which is just left of a huge gap in a right-facing dihedral, and then going one line further left past an arete. This line is characterized by its unusually large number of face holds for both hands and feet along the upper half of the route in lighter-colored rock. Climb up on good jams and good gear with decent face holds until near the top, when the jamming and face holds suddenly both become awkward and insecure. Put in those 1" cams and then 1.5's to get up to the anchors. Convincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route.

Protection

2 each, 1.5"-3.5" in 1/2 inch increments. An extra 3" is recommeneded by the Indian Creek guide book but seemed unnecessary.
Highlander
Ouray, CO
Highlander   Ouray, CO
3.5 camalots are money on the start of this one, new bd #4 fits in places but is tight. Nov 22, 2014
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Most of the route is baggy #3 camalot. Most people will like to have somewhere between 3 - 5 #3s and a couple of 3.5 camalots in addition to the smaller gear Nov 12, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
i replaced those time bombs fall of 08. the bolts were 7inch deck screws. i pulled them out by hand!!! Jan 22, 2010
Bret  
Quality route. As of 10/31/09 the anchors are now drilled pins and they look fine, though the slings will eventually need replacement. To avoid walking and backcleaning, 2 #3.5 (or new 4) Camalots and 3 #3 Camalots nicely protect the bottom 50' of fistness. Old #4 camalots are too big. Nov 3, 2009
Take the bolt kit.
Post some pics when your done. Nov 5, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
anybody know if the anchor ever got replaced on this one? if not I might be able to do it this weekend... Nov 5, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10
Anchor bolts are 1/2-1" out from the wall...sketch! back up the anchor for top-rope and lower off them at your own risk. Oct 22, 2007
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
...but why would you want to?

Fun climb, cleaner rock than it might look. Whoever dilled the anchor bolts on this thing needs corrective lenses. Nov 26, 2006
Red Rocks comes to the Creek. It's probably possible to do the whole thing without putting your hand in the crack. Jun 2, 2006