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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass
Page Views: 16,366 total, 115/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

As the guide says; Very Steep and sustained figer stacks through a small roof. Featured on the of Climbing #128. The stacks on this climb are amazing/good. But to prepare for this climb I will suggest placing your thumb in a vice for a few hours. Do that every day for 2 weeks and you are ready. You get a lot on this climb for 60 feet. Oh and there is one hand jam on it, but it not that great. But hafter 45 feet of stacks, it most welcome. If you have nice small and thin hands you can hand jam.

Location

From the base of the buttress head to the left and around. It is the climb before Layaway Plan. You can't miss it, because when you walk by you say to your self 'Oh My God, I got to get on that'

Protection

For the BD crew: 8 to 10 green camalots and 2 or 3 one camalots.
For the WC crew 8 to 10 1.5 friends and 2 to 3 2.0 friends.
Watch Me Dude
  5.12
Watch Me Dude  
  5.12
This bueaty kicked my ass! A little finger wiggling and the stacks feel pretty solid. After whipping about 4 times on my onsight attempt I finally reached the anchor. While attempting to heal my damaged ego at the bottom another guy gave it a pull I and watched in envy and disbelief as he shoved half his hand in the crack the whole way up. If you have somewhat big hands you wont be able to find anything but finger stacking aside from a couple jams it reluctantly offers. Felt like a solid .12 to me! Apr 17, 2016
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
couple notes from doing this route again recently. you can pretty much place .75 camalots anywhere on the route. if you don't have a pile of these, then there are some other options. i used only #2 friends to get up to the first pod, and then .75 camalots above. you can also use anwhere between a .3 camalot and .5 camalot above the 2nd pod. this will help save those .75's, which will be trying to fly off of your rack and into the crack.

this would be a great first IC 12, or a good one if you are a strong sport climber who hasn't done a lot of crack climbing. you can easily break it down into several sections with great rests. also it is short and has good stances for placing gear and then shooting for the next stance.

normally i'm not really into repeating routes, but this one is a lot of fun and i would do it again. Nov 2, 2011
acouncell
Estes Park, CO
acouncell   Estes Park, CO
The anchors should be replaced soon. The hanger on the left bolt spins but may only need tightening. The right bolt, however, wiggles easily if you test it with your fingers. Until these bolts are replaced or beefed up, if you want an added measure of safety, just take along an extra .75 camalot or equivalent to back up the anchor. Just a heads up, have fun! Oct 30, 2010
Scott Bennett
  5.12-
Scott Bennett  
  5.12-
Agree that this route is not as hard as it looks. There end up being quite a few good rests, including a no-hands if you step right about 20' up. Still a great route! Oct 28, 2010
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
I felt the crux was down low where the feet blank out- the roof is hard but has good feet. Oct 12, 2010
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
it is easy to look up at the roof and totally overlook the start, which is tougher than it looks. i thought the crux was getting to the first hand jam. placing gear off of a big 3 fingered thumb stack, or in some cases a very tight hand jam with slippery feet was kind of intense. a very do-able route thought, as you can break it down into realistic sections. May 18, 2009
Brad G  
I thought the crux was placing gear on the first half of the route. Having to place thoughs cams with almost all my wait on one stack was some what unplesent Dec 1, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12
8-#.75 camalots, 1-#2 friend (below the roof in a pod) and a yellow alien when the crack thins at the top. Aug 18, 2008
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
You get 2 really good hand jams, one below the roof and one past it in the pod. Also, don't bring that much gear. Remember an orange tcu size for after the pod and the rest is .75s(9 max). If you don't have that many then you can definitely fit 1, maybe 2 #2 friends, but no #1 camalots. Aug 23, 2006