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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Goldstein and Fox, 1994
Page Views: 6,078 total, 41/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 27, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is the obvious left-facing corner up and right of approach trail's intersection with the rock. This is 50M right of Way Rambo and just right and facing the popular warm-up, Rochambeau.Climbinto the awkward slot and then up and right to enter the corner. Climb up good jamming at a low angle with some nice ledges for rest here and there. Use these ledges for a complete de-pump to avoid enduro fatigue at the finish. Continue climbing, placing widening gear on the upper section, with good undercling hand-jams. Finish on 3" cams under the right-leaning crack/flake to grab the finishing holds and get into the finger slots to clip the anchors from. Great finish to a great climb. A 70M rope is required to lower off or TR this line.

Protection

The bottom is an awkward slot that is not well protected. A 1.5" cam in a 'soft' horizontal protects a move 4 meters up that enters the main corner system and gets you to good pro. Get a spot.After that, the route is mostly 1.5"-3", heavy on the 3" pro, incluing at the pumpy crux up top.
Use a 70M rope to get all the way down.
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
What a great package! 70m will get you down. Tie knots if you're nervous. I would bring 3-4 #2's, 3 should be fine, but I would recommend saving one for the finish. I would also prefer 5-6 #3's, or perhaps I just didn't run it out enough through the lower angle three size. If you go with 4 #3's be ready for some healthy run outs on pretty cruiser # 3 terrain. Never found a spot for a 4 or even a 3.5. Oct 10, 2016
Chris G.
Lakewood
 
Chris G.   Lakewood
 
after cleaning the route, my 70m rope was hanging off the ground a few feet and I have never cut the ends. My weight was able to stretch the rest of the way. Be carful and tie your ends...or possibly make sure its a true 70m Dec 5, 2014
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.10+
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.10+
The "PG-13" start is obviated by a #6 Camalot. The placement is a bit flared, but you can place a #0.5 and #0.75 soon thereafter. The guidebook says to bring #4, and while I was able to place it at one point, it was quite over-cammed and not at all worth taking up route. I would bring more #2's instead. But ideally, you can snag some 2.5's. the upper crack only takes #2's well in a few constrictions you have to really look for, whereas a 2.5 would go pretty much anywhere. Dec 1, 2013
Once you reach the hands free rest near the top, the steeper crack starts to slim down, not widen as the description mentions. It goes from 3 Camalots to 3 Friends then on down to 2 Camalots at the top. Feb 15, 2013
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
I would like to offer a sincerely, fully, deeply, heart-felt "F" "U" to the jackoff asshat who scratched the graffiti on this route. Keep your scrawling to the city streets, jerk. Nov 29, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
 
NickinCO   colorado
 
Not sure how or why this would be rated "R". The top is #2 camalots, not #3's. 70m rope worked fine for us. Oct 13, 2012
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
pretty good route. the flake/undercling at the end is a bit unnerving as the rock is pretty thin. the anchors are in hollow rock. Oct 25, 2011
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
If you got down with a 60, you were definitely on the wrong route. To rap, a 70 is plenty, but to second the route (with the rope running through gear), a 70 may be too short. When I lowered off with my 70 I wound up about 10 feet short of the ground. Jun 6, 2011
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.10
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.10
Definitely needs a 70m rope. Watch the sandy smears on top!! Awesome pitch. Nov 17, 2010
Not quite, dude. We had a 70m and it was exactly enough. Maybe you were on a different route. Apr 13, 2009
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Not even close to being R rated, not even PG, completely safe climb and soft for the grade. I got down with a 60 meter with rope on the ground, not sure what people are saying about 70m ropes not making it down. Nov 14, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.10
Braxtron   ...
  5.10
Though the start is awkward and not well-protected, I don't think this climb is R-rated. May 5, 2008
Mike Munger
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Munger   Boulder, Colorado
Excellent warm-up. My 70m was a little short when I didn't clean the gear on the way down. Straight line to the anchors a 70 is fine. May 1, 2007
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.10
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.10
Acording to the bloom book it is 130ft....well a 70m got me down with about 2 feet to spare.....also this is MUCH better then the sandy and loose choss pile to the left raushampooooo Mar 24, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Great route. Save some #2 camalots for the steep section at the top! Better yet, save some strength for the final move!
Feb 8, 2006