Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: si
Page Views: 7,736 total · 45/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the chimney behind 'Slice and Dice'. It protects (!) with TCU's in a finger crack, so it seems like a good way to get to know this kind of climbing without the typical runouts found in most such places. I haven't tried it straight in (w/o using the back wall), but this would be a whole lot harder.

Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.

Protection

Finger stuff to .75 Camalot. 2-pin anchor. Plaque.

Photos