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Routes in Way Rambo
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A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coppertone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Farkle For It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kelley Route #16 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Way Putter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Yes |
| Page Views: | 8,475 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Dillon on Apr 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This is the chimney behind 'Slice and Dice'. It protects (!) with TCU's in a finger crack, so it seems like a good way to get to know this kind of climbing without the typical runouts found in most such places. I haven't tried it straight in (w/o using the back wall), but this would be a whole lot harder.
Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.
Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.
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