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Routes in Way Rambo

A Tale of Two Sheep T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chest Full of Kind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Closed Course T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockometer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Expendables 2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
First Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fix Your Tips T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fuzz T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ginzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Grindhouse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Host, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hostess, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Inhabitants, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layaway Plan T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Layoff plan TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monk, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja in the Shadows T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegades of Funk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rochambeau T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serrator Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slice and Dice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Way Nutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Rambo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wishbone Suspension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: si
Page Views: 6,261 total, 44/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the chimney behind 'Slice and Dice'. It protects (!) with TCU's in a finger crack, so it seems like a good way to get to know this kind of climbing without the typical runouts found in most such fissures. I haven't tried it straight in (w/o using the back wall), but this would be a whole lot harder.

Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.

Protection

Finger stuff to .75 Camalot. 2-pin anchor. Plaque.

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Strenuous and a fun change of pace from the usual crack climbing. Anchor is equalized cord and I left a locker up there to facilitate rapping off. The bolt is disconcertingly loose. I didn't pry too aggressively but it's beyond just a spinning hanger. The drilled angle looks very solid, fortunately. Nov 26, 2017
blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.8
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.8
I believe the current anchor is a modern bolt and a FP with tat. This could use chains. Nov 24, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
several in the .3, .4, .5 size and up to #2 near the top. Bolted anchor I think ? May 2, 2016
slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
i thought this was a really fun little route - definitely worth doing. as mentioned above, good intro to this type of climbing without the usual runouts. not too often that you get to plug a bunch of tiny cams into a 5.8 in the desert. Oct 25, 2011
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
Replaced the anchor slings on 5/30/11 Jun 5, 2011
Rob Dillon  
 
Go ahead and climb up to the old hex or whatever it was and take care of it. Thanks! Nov 6, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
I climbed Renegades this past weekend and thought the anchors were in a strangely chosen spot. Too bad they aren't higher. Nov 6, 2007