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Serrator Crack

5.11-, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 80 votes
FA: Alan the Brit
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is found just to the left of Layaway Plan and cannot be mistaken since the name says it all. The first 20 feet is the meat of the climb, just insert your leg and start stackin. The rest of the climb is only about 5.8 but you need to walk the #5 for a bit and beware of the serrating edge.

Protection

Camalots-(2) #4's, (2) #4.5"s, (1) #5. I used one of the #4's at the beginning and found a crappy placement for the other near the top. It might be better to leave a #4 and take another #5, except that you have to lug the boat anchor then.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Further progress up the Serrator
[Hide Photo] Further progress up the Serrator
More likely to fall in it as opposed to out of it.
[Hide Photo] More likely to fall in it as opposed to out of it.
Past the hard stuff and into the grind
[Hide Photo] Past the hard stuff and into the grind
Ryan climbing without a valley giant.
[Hide Photo] Ryan climbing without a valley giant.
Ryan on Serrator Crack.
[Hide Photo] Ryan on Serrator Crack.
Knee jam!<br>
I had way more cams than I needed..
[Hide Photo] Knee jam! I had way more cams than I needed..
The Serrator: scary maneater, bring the big stuff
[Hide Photo] The Serrator: scary maneater, bring the big stuff
Alf hauling a Valley Giant up the Serrator
[Hide Photo] Alf hauling a Valley Giant up the Serrator
Starting up the Serrator
[Hide Photo] Starting up the Serrator
Me. Turns out #6's are heavy....who knew.
[Hide Photo] Me. Turns out #6's are heavy....who knew.
A cameraman HATES to be caught without a camera... Photographer Andrew Burr with a comment on what it's like to be on the wrong side of the lens. (IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW
[Hide Photo] A cameraman HATES to be caught without a camera... Photographer Andrew Burr with a comment on what it's like to be on the wrong side of the lens. (IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW
Climber/Photographer Andrew Burr is as deft with the big gear as he is with a lens. Enjoying the wide open vistas of IC during a rare break in the work... IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW
[Hide Photo] Climber/Photographer Andrew Burr is as deft with the big gear as he is with a lens. Enjoying the wide open vistas of IC during a rare break in the work... IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

m-earle
USA
 
[Hide Comment] I had one #6 wild country, which i wakled from the start of the serrator for 20'. after that, the crack becomes too big for the last 15'-20' or so. it would be nice to have two #6 cams; its a little scary being 60' off the deck with basicaly one cam between you and a ground fall. Apr 23, 2007
[Hide Comment] Gotta give credit to Alan the Brit for putting this one up in 2002? Sep 10, 2007
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves. May 11, 2009
JoergB
Germany
 
[Hide Comment] Difficulty is to get over the constriction a the start, and the next meter where still the knee does not fit. Once it fits in, the thing is fun. Oct 14, 2009
D-Storm
 
[Hide Comment] A great primer for Big Guy. If running it out at the end, as seems to be the common practice, be ready for one more spot of fear before reaching the chains. The top of the flake is fractured, forming a big perched block that you have to pull on to finish. It's probably stable enough for some time to come, but terrifying to think about while monkeying around on the thin, hollow thing with no pro in sight below. Apr 1, 2012
Patrick O'Neil
Santa Clara, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I've never downgraded a route yet in the 3+ years I've been climbing, and generally think that it's douchey to do so. That being said, after doing OWs in the valley, it feels charitable to rate this thing any harder than .10-. Color me a douche. Oct 29, 2013
D-Storm
 
[Hide Comment] This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c). Apr 1, 2014
[Hide Comment] no-one cares what this would be rated in the valley. Because it's not the valley, it's the desert. Friction, environment, geometry, everything is different. The only thing more pointless than discussing grades is comparing grades in areas thousands of miles apart. Oct 21, 2017
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Was able to find a spot for a #5 bout' 3/4 up.. although its a dicey placement between two corners in the wave.. Groundfall potential makes this fun! (1) #4 (1) #5 (2) #6 Apr 27, 2019