Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Ben F and Micah Dash
Page Views: 8,391 total · 48/month
Shared By: Joe Santambrogio on Sep 30, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The offwidth about 20 feet left of Blue Sun, starts as hands and gets rapidly wider...but there are plenty of small ledges for rests after most moves.

Great shady climb in the am,


Camalots #4, 4.5, and 5 all very usefull


FA: the Nutter, Nov. 2001. FA nicknamed by Heavy Duty for driving from Denver to the Creek almost every weekend the previous spring. Feb 24, 2005
Andrew Klein  
I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK! Mar 15, 2005
Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
If you skip the offwidth of this climb, you've skipped the best part. It might look hard, but if you get up in it with your right side, there are some easy mantelling moves on the left wall. Mar 21, 2005
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
This route is a great warm up. The hand crack at the bottom is great and the off-with section is really fun. There are plenty of rests from which one can easily place protection. I liked this one better than Rochambeau. Also, be careful at the top near the anchors, there is some loose rock up there that I nearly knocked down. Mar 24, 2005
Sacramento, CA
coreylee   Sacramento, CA
#6 Camalot was real useful at the top. Nov 17, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
Fun route! I agree that a #6 Camalot is really nice to have. Nov 17, 2008
Sara Ann
Sunnyvale, CA
Sara Ann   Sunnyvale, CA
You want one if not TWO number 6s at the top. I levitated one for a while, and then wished I had another. Crack's too wide for a five up there. Apr 6, 2011

i wish i could levitate items. then i could just leave half the rack on the ground and levitate it up to me when i need it. maybe a sandwich too, while i was at it. Apr 7, 2011
I climbed this on a 4, 5 and 6 (all C4) and didn't feel like I was running it out at all. Just bump your cams, standard offwidth technique. The top was the best part. Oct 29, 2012
The Blueprint Part Dank
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
Such an awesome little route. Unusual for the Creek, this route has a few really nice hand and footholds to break up the crack climbing. I can't recommend this enough as an intro to OW climbing. I took 1 #3, 1 #4, 2 #5's and 1 #6 and placed them all. The second #5 is nice for the last moves, but not necessary.

I scratched out a small plaque with the route name and difficulty ("Way Nutter 5.9") and put it at the base so more folks will notice and climb this awesome line. I made the plaque small and somewhat inconspicuous though, many apologies to the First Ascentionist if this plaque is unwanted. Dec 1, 2013
Not to be missed if you're in the area. Short and ridiculously fun warm-up and great intro to wide climbing. Do two wide moves, take a rest on a ledge, repeat. Bring a 5 and a 6 for big stuff and be prepared to slide the latter up with you. Mar 23, 2015
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado

Plaques never bothered me. I'm glad that you and others here enjoyed the climb. I was waiting around back in the day and said to myself "that looks worth climbing and I get to use my 5 and 6 Friends." Glenn agreed to belay me, but wasn't motivated to climb it. Micah was up for doing it and came up second. Feb 3, 2018
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
Looking up at the wide crux, I said to my partner, "The #5 should protect most of the crack, and then I'll just scoot up and clip the anchors." It didn't. Bring a #6, or you'll get spooked! The moves to that point were incredibly fun, though -- I would really recommend this climb.

On a side note, my 2013 guidebook lists a chockstone anchor at 50', which I couldn't see. There's a nice bolted anchor above the finishing ledge. Where was the chockstone one? Dec 11, 2018