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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 6,561 total · 44/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Paradigm Shift may be the ultimate Red Wing route. There are certainly some harder climbs at the bluff, but none personify so well the nature of hard climbing at Red Wing; incredibly crimpy, super technical, and very temperature dependent. The first 50 feet are incredibly sustained, with no real letup until you reach the jug at bolt six; from there to the top is relatively easy 5.10 climbing with ample opportunity to depump before sneaking through the band of choss on top to reach the anchors. The bottom two thirds of the route consists of three very difficult boulder problems, each one harder than the last, linked by easier but extremely technical terrain. The first powerful, crimpy boulder problem gets you to the second bolt and the bottom of the distinctive seam/crack that diagonals up the lower part of the wall. The seam consists of super techy 5.11+ that may seem impossible until you find the right sequence of microscopic footholds to see you through. At the end of the seam, the next boulder problem tackles a powerful gaston and match on a slopey rail to reach the large pocket which is much worse than it looks. Make the difficult clip from the pocket, then move left to reach the "rest" at a four inch long, incut crimper. I would not consider this a rest on any other route, but you take what you can get and this is far and away the best hold between the ground and the jug at 50 feet. Shake out as best you can before tackling another ten feet of awkward, technical 5.11 climbing to reach the ultimate crux of the route and the hardest individual moves, right after the fifth bolt. There are numerous sequences for the last boulder problem, but they invariably all use the same razor sharp 1/4 inch crimper, tiny iron oxide gaston high and right, and some combination of worthless ripples and pockets as intermediates to reach the flat, positive crimper that finishes this V5 sequence. Bearing down on the sharp holds enough to stick the last moves as your forearms reach meltdown is, needless to say, a good test of pain tolerance and tenacity. Two more big reaches will bring you to that "thank god" jug out right and the end of the difficulties. Due to the thin, crimpy nature of this route, it's highly temperature dependent and nearly impossible during the humid summer months. There has been some debate as to the grade of this route, given 12d in Farris's guidebook. Everyone I talked to who has done this route or come close, with the exception of one, felt strongly that it warrants the bump to 13a. In comparison to other hard Red Wing routes such as Living All Over Me and Mississippi Burning that are considered solid for their grades, Paradigm was a huge leap in difficulty and seems deserving of the bump. It would be great to see more traffic on this route and a few more opinions about the grade. Whatever the rating, the route is a classic and deserves to see more attention.


Scott Hahn
Scott Hahn  
You'll never convince me otherwise that this isn't 13a May 23, 2006
Darin Limvere
Darin Limvere  
Ya, I think most of the people who have said it's 12d suffered from the "being strong at your home crag" syndrome. Paradigm is much harder than 12c's at red wing, 12d doesn't make sense. Nov 5, 2007
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
HIGHLY temperature dependent! I recall taking two fall on this route my first attempt on a late fall day. Then returned the following summer in early july, and couldn"t get to the 4th bolt, it felt several grades harder! Awesome route in the right conditions, no fun if its hot. Nov 14, 2007
Great route! One of the longest ones at red wing, powerful and technical, by far the best route I have tried at red wing! Have been working it for 2 summer's now and am getting really close! Any one know the conditions of the wall currently? I'm up in Duluth and don't want to make the drive if it's wet or anything Mar 21, 2015

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