Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,801 total · 12/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on May 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This is on of a few unbolted cracks at Barn Bluff. It protects well until the last 10 feet or so to the bolted anchors left of the crack. Good fingers/hand crack climbing with great foot holds. The sloper/off width section near the top is the crux. This route is sandy and chossy as it is not climbed often. Fun climb.

  • RCM&W #29, p. 123

Protection

A set of nuts and medium sized cams is required to lead this route. 2 bolt anchors at the top.

Photos

chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.9
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
  5.9
This climb is okay. It's sandy and chossy near the big hole. The gear is allright up until that point. May 30, 2007
Bill Fulton
St Paul
  5.10a
Bill Fulton   St Paul
  5.10a
This one always feels at least as hard as "No Whippin Boys" to me, probably due to its steepness. The bottom half has small/medium gear in blocky (i.e., fractured) rock. The crux is going from the last ledge to the huecos; I can't find a good stance until the huecos. My gear beta for the crux: #4 Camelot in the pod at last ledge, then reach high to place a .5 Camelot as high as possible. Climb up to the hueco jugs (they're in there) where you can place a #3 Camelot behind you, or just place #1 Camelot higher up. Apr 19, 2008
LeoSpaceman  
 
I found a #13 stopper at the top of the route today. If it's yours I'll trade you this for a beer of your choice. Or just give it back to you. I bought this same size stopper yesterday to fill out my rack, and two of them make my stoppers clunky.

Anyway, this route isn't terrible. Sandy, a loose block near the start, questionable flakes - the rumors are true. It just needs to get more traffic and it'll be polished into a true RW classic. Sew it up, stay safe and have fun on it. Oct 23, 2016
Gavin Purcell
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
Gavin Purcell   Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
This route has some good finger and hand jams although neither are absolutely necessary. Negotiating the slight overhang and the chossy cave-like section at the top is challenging on lead. Avoid cam placements next to loose blocks if any. The route takes enough good gear to be lead safely, at least by Red Wing standards. Sep 6, 2017