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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,804 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 20, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a pretty nice intro to Red Wing gear climbs. It's easy but getting slicker by the season from all the traffic, esp. since the start is shared by Kelly's Arete to the left. Anyway, the climb is okay, but a tiny bit sketchy for the first 10 feet due to slickness factor. Protects easily. Easy after the ledge.

  • RCM&W #38, p. 125

See photo, thanks Kris.

http://mountainproject.com/v/minnesota/barn_bluff_red_wing_mn/winter_wall/105903726

Protection

#3 cam or similar hex in the wide crack down low and then a smaller one near the ledge. Smaller Camalot or medium nuts on the upper section. Protects well and the rock is good. You can see the whole route from the base and can figure out what to bring. Chains/biners at the top for anchor. Use your own biners to toprope and replace any biners at the top that look bad! The old ones will look rad on your backpack.

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, WI
 
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
 
Jam and Jelly kind of angles up and left from the ledge, and The Go Between line of bolts starts at this ledge but about 5 feet right of the crack and goes straight up, if I remember right. So if there is a line of bolts that starts directly above the finish of Jam and Jelly (over to the left), that should not be The Go Between. Mar 27, 2010
Kevin O'Connor
Jacksonville, AR
  5.7+
Kevin O'Connor   Jacksonville, AR
  5.7+
There is a line of bolts above Jam and Jelly. They continue over the roof above the ledge full of loose rock. They end at the top of the bluff at some nice new anchors. Are these the bolts for The Go Between, or a Jam and Jelly continuation? Anyone know? Mar 26, 2010
Kevin O'Connor
Jacksonville, AR
  5.7+
Kevin O'Connor   Jacksonville, AR
  5.7+
Route is pretty easy after my second ascent of it. I remember sewing it up the first time, yet this time I only placed two hexes. The bottom is for sure the crux. Once you're off the ground your fine. There is actually a 5.11 continuation at the top that I recommend if you want a little more spice. Once you get to the anchors look up and follow the bolts to the summit, a rare treat at Red Wing to reach the summit. BEWARE of loose rock on the ledge at the anchors. Mar 8, 2010
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
  5.8-
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
  5.8-
Lots of loose gravel at the top ledge. Belayer beware. #1 camalot and .75 is what I used to protect the bottom. Very slick. Good climb none the less. Sep 26, 2008
Ryan Anderson
Bozeman
  5.7
Ryan Anderson   Bozeman
  5.7
Protects fine. The first 10 feet or so are strenuous for the grade. A few loose bits of rock. Apr 21, 2007