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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 1,501 total, 11/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Rock Pigs is a mostly fun route that offers thoughtful cruxes and great position. By no means would I recommend climbing this if you have not done Mississippi Burning, Living All Over Me, Femme Fatale, Advanced Birding, Light My Fire, or Preemptive Strike. But if you are local, and need something after having done these routes, Rock Pigs is the climb for you.
The most powerful moves are at the start (which can be a little disquieting, if you don't know they're the hardest moves), and they give way to fun, pretty easy climbing for twenty feet or so.
The crux, illustrated vividly at right, is fun, and allows for some creativity. For a couple of suggestions for beta, check the comments below. The rest of the route allows you to work on your climbing-shitty-rock-without-pulling anything-off skills.
Update: with about fifty times as many people able to climb 12+ in MN now, compared to when I climbed this, this route is getting a lot of attention, and is getting cleaner. Next time someone gets on it, could you post information onthe status of its hardware? That was its other black eye, for sure, when I did it.

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KurtH  
Good work Randy! Somehow ye old RW keeps giving. And gosh, if you called the previous opening moves v2 then this v6 must be gnarly! ;) May 14, 2015
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
I climbed this thing again today. The new beginning is much more difficult than before. Pre-break, the beginning was a somewhat technical V2 boulder problem. Now, it is a weird V6. Actually, I am unsure on the grade. I have not climbed many similar boulders. The crux revolves around a two-finger micro crimp for the left hand, two finger pebble for the right, and a severely left high step. Weird stuff. I don't think it could be easier than V5 nor harder than V7. Anyway, yea, this thing goes free. Call it 12d or soft 13a. Well, at least until it breaks again. :) May 14, 2015
ferrells
  5.12c
ferrells  
  5.12c
Yeah. It looks much harder now. May 31, 2013
Tyler  
Well, another Red Wing classic suffers a brutal blow. You know the hard start, going to the big flake with a rad, right-hand gaston move? GONE. That flake is poof bam seeya outta here gone. I only saw it. Havent' tried the beginning since. Anyone?
New route!
Eeeeesh. Jan 14, 2013
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
Sad. :( Nov 16, 2012
AntVicino
  5.12c
AntVicino  
  5.12c
Ha! That's perfect, man! Then again, that means Mississippi is an eliminate.. tsk tsk.. Nov 8, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
yea, in regards to that rest on mississippi, i hear you. that's why i skip that rest and anything to do with the crack. this makes me feel entitled and better than anyone. sorry, dude. that's just how the system works. :) Nov 7, 2010
AntVicino
  5.12c
AntVicino  
  5.12c
Randy, I agree with you on Advanced Birding and Preemptive Strike not being 12c.. Preemptive is barey 12b, Advanced Birding is barely 12a.. in my book atleast.

Yeah, I do think Rock Pigs is better than Mississippi. Mississippi has a giant standing no hands rest midway through making it not very sustained at all. With that rest, I have a hard time even calling Mississippi 12c to be honest. Nov 6, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
better than mississippi, really? i agree that rock pigs is better than preemptive and advanced birding.

i think the best 12c's (in order) are: mississippi burning, femme fatale, and rock pigs.

i think relentless direct should be thrown in there, too. but it's considered by most a 12d. on that note, i don't consider preemptive or advanced birding as 12c. that's because i'm a sandbagging snob. :) Nov 5, 2010
AntVicino
  5.12c
AntVicino  
  5.12c
This is a really good route. Really fun movement all the way through. In my opinion I think it is better than Mississippi Burning, Preemptive Strike, and Advanced Birding. The best 12c at Red Wing in my mind. Nov 5, 2010
ferrells
  5.12c
ferrells  
  5.12c
cool! well maybe that upper section is cleaning up a little now that the route is getting more attention. Dec 10, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c/d
cheers to you ferrels, but i can't use that right-hand gaston beta for the crux. i think it's just best to do the move to the edge.

also, i think the moves above the crux are fun. particularly, i like the moves -- moving off the sloping dish to the pocketed crimps -- from the last bolt to the "anchor" (the leaver biner at the true last bolt). Nov 8, 2009
Brandonbus
  5.12c
Brandonbus  
  5.12c
Like "Light My Fire" to its right, "Rock Pigs" is another under-appreciated route on the winter wall. Really fun with a big move mid route. Good rests between hard climbing. Apr 6, 2008
ferrells
  5.12c
ferrells  
  5.12c
Yeah, I put that biner on the last bolt last year when I did the route. When I lowered off, I ran the rope through the anchors, and clipped that biner in case the anchor failed, hoping that others would leave it there and do the same to be safe.
It'd be nice if people left it there until the anchors were fixed so that no one has to fall sixty feet.
The route has two hard sections. The first couple of moves are the most powerful, with a couple of long reaches to holds pointing the wrong way while you're smearing on little greasy stuff. Once established on the layback and crimps, the climbing is easier and fun for perhaps twenty feet.
The second challenging section, what I think you're talking about Jordan, comes up next. I tried it by establishing on a couple of okay crimps and throwing my left hand far up to the left to an invisible hold. This ended up being hit or miss for me, so I found a small, sharp gaston crimp for my right hand. Combined with a high foot, it's possible to do the move to the good crimp on the left in a more static manner.
From there, it's choss to the anchors. Not to put down the route, but this section is fairly exciting for it's dirtiness. I broke several holds on the finish last year, and took a big screaming fall when both of my handholds ripped off almost simultaneously. That said, the cruxes below are great, and the route is worth doing.
Oct 25, 2007
Jordan Seering
  5.12d
Jordan Seering  
  5.12d
Any beta for the crux? Sep 15, 2007
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
 
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
 
Anchors are looking terribly rusted. Use the bail biner on the last bolt to lower. Sep 4, 2006