Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Page Views: 138 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard C on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route

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This little number here is like its neighbor to the right Longing for Miss Adonis, only easier. which would make sense since they are the same climb but with different starts that are quite similar, Hmmm. Begin your adventure by working your way up the blocky ledges clipping the first two bolts on Orange Marmalade, then cut straight right on very small balancy holds which is the crux to a right hand pinch on the arĂȘtĂ© with good feet, alternatively one could use what I call a "thumbdercling" to accomplish the crux reach. once you are locked in the pinch grab a left hand crimp just above the pinch, get those feel up and bump your left hand to a gaston and move into the slaby dihedral and finish on Longing for Miss Adonis, with some chill but interesting stemming action, the last few holds are a bit dirty but over all the rock is solid, but as this is Red Wing do not quote me on that.
This route would appeal to two different types people ones that are looking for some thing atypical for Red Wing or ones that have tried almost every thing else.