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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 2,066 total, 15/month
Shared By: randy baum on May 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Light My Fire is located between Rock Pigs and Super High Tech Jetfighter (the route just to the left of Kelly's ArĂȘte).

The climb got its name because the first ascensionist, Jeff Engel, used a blow torch to dry out the holds between redpoint burns. Red Wing laughed at this man's delusions, saying, "blow torch, smore norch. these holds will always be greasy and chossy!". With that, Mr. Engel punched the base of the route, thus creating the great two-finger pocket at its start. That guy has no ethics, brauh.

For the start, I recommend skipping the first bolt and just stick clipping the second, and have your belayer stand to your right. With this setup, you'll have an unobstructed throw for the undercling.

At a foot or so above the fourth bolt, there is a crumbling pinch (especially at it's base/bottom). Tread carefully, and don't blow -- or blame -- your RP on this, homie.

Takes five draws. Anchors have leaver biners -- and a dead bush that obstructs clipping! (how can Red Wing's rock crumble so easily, but that bush lives on year after year??!)

Protection

bolts

Photos

Liz H  
Welp, you're not going to be using that crumbling pinch above the 4th bolt anymore. This weekend, in the Red Wing tradition, it exploded off the wall, leaving a flat thumbdercling in its place. It still goes just fine, but now requires you to move more carefully, like the delicate, fancy dancer you know you are / have always wanted to be. Oct 14, 2013
ferrells
  5.12d
ferrells  
  5.12d
Thanks for updating the page! Great description.
Not sure what I think about clipping the second bolt first, but then I tend to have pretty strict and sometimes stupid ideas of what's right and wrong when it comes to sport climbing. May 30, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.12c
moved Randy's post to route description
--Kris Gorny Sep 13, 2009
ferrells
  5.12d
ferrells  
  5.12d
This is a great route. In my mind, it is split into three sections. The first is getting to the undercling, which for me requires a dyno for the first move, a couple of careful smears, and a long move into a tensiony span.
The second moves from the undercling through a couple of small crimps, and up to the crux hold, a sloping crimp thing. This hold used to be a giant flat edge, but was broken a couple of years ago (I know who did it, and I heard last year that he still thinks about gluing it back on). For me, moving through that hold (and making that clip) is the crux of the route.
Once established on the great crimp to the right of the broken hold, you work your way up through a nice little pocket (one or two fingers, depending) and a couple of edges. Dr. Hirsch says you have to dyno, but I just edge my way up with my right hand, getting my feet high, and reach to the jug.
The final bit is a great finish on surprisingly solid holds (except for a small dirty section). The end doesn't compare to the difficulty of the beginning, but you still have to think your way through it, and there are a couple of great moves up there.
I never climbed the route before the hold broke, but right now, it climbs great. I hope that hold never gets glued back on. My favorite 12d at Red Wing. Oct 25, 2007
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.12d
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.12d
There's a rumor that a foothold broke off this route, making it more difficult for shorter folks. It still goes at 12c.

A totally underappreciated route. One new quick-clip at the top for lowering to go with the hook and other biner.

JW Mar 25, 2007