Light My Fire
Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
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|Shared By:||randy baum on May 19, 2006|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE|
DescriptionLight My Fire is located between Rock Pigs and Super High Tech Jetfighter (the route just to the left of Kelly's Arête).
The climb got its name because the first ascensionist, Jeff Engel, used a blow torch to dry out the holds between redpoint burns. Red Wing laughed at this man's delusions, saying, "blow torch, smore norch. these holds will always be greasy and chossy!". With that, Mr. Engel punched the base of the route, thus creating the great two-finger pocket at its start. That guy has no ethics, brauh.
For the start, I recommend skipping the first bolt and just stick clipping the second, and have your belayer stand to your right. With this setup, you'll have an unobstructed throw for the undercling.
At a foot or so above the fourth bolt, there is a crumbling pinch (especially at it's base/bottom). Tread carefully, and don't blow -- or blame -- your RP on this, homie.
Takes five draws. Anchors have leaver biners -- and a dead bush that obstructs clipping! (how can Red Wing's rock crumble so easily, but that bush lives on year after year??!)