Type: Sport
FA: Keith Anderson (Bolted by Tom Ramier)
Page Views: 4,133 total · 27/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 17, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

NSP, so named for the power required to do it, is the premier hard Red Wing route, and among the best of the harder routes in Minnesota. It starts with a short, easy sequence of crimps, and then the crux comes, brief and brutal.
Above the crux, work your way through easy and fun full pad crimps and jugs for twenty feet, slightly angling to the right. Because of the difficulty above and below, it can feel a bit odd to be on such easy terrain, but fret not: you are not off-route.
You will quickly find yourself on some big jugs with your feet not quite beneath you. Gain a rest that I didn't think really offered full recovery. Chalk a couple times, and just keep going.
The redpoint crux, is not as difficult as the lower crux, but it's still really fun. Make long moves between good holds, and clip the anchors from jugs. The perfect Red Wing route.

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Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
I'm pretty sure this is the route where the current rating is unknown, because one of the crux holds broke off. May 25, 2006
Scott Hahn
  5.13d
Scott Hahn  
  5.13d
I know of at least 4 ascents since the hold broke. For me it was solid 13d. Others it may have felt easier or harder. I've heard 13c and 13d. Either way it was one of my favorite routes I ever did at Red Wing. Jun 7, 2006
ferrells
  5.13d
ferrells  
  5.13d
Yeah, I think Andy Raether wanted to rename it after being the first to climb post-hold-break. Something like Pure Power, or something. Anyway, everyone still calls it NSP, and yeah, it's been done a bunch since then. Best route at Red Wing! Oct 11, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
located just around the corner from jumpstart, in between relentless (11a crack) and paul's boutique (5.13 blunt arete). Oct 11, 2010
Cory Luke
Sauk Rapids, MN
Cory Luke   Sauk Rapids, MN
Went back yesterday for my redpoint accent, but when I reached for the crux hold, it wasn't there. Good luck to anyone who tries it now. Oct 31, 2010
Cory, the crux hold broke off a couple days ago.. It has been glued back on and is as good as new...Get back on there and crush that thing! Nov 1, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
man, gluing rocks together....when you stop and think about the stuff we do to climb rocks, you realize this is all pretty ridiculous. i love it all the same. Nov 2, 2010
Cory Luke
Sauk Rapids, MN
Cory Luke   Sauk Rapids, MN
I gave it try without the hold, but I'm way too short to reach anything else that might make it work without. Nov 8, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
i heard from a reputable source that the hold in question may have originally been a chipped/manufactured hold. does this change anything? would not gluing the hold back on return it to its "natural" state? am i just wasting my breath? Nov 8, 2010
ferrells
  5.13d
ferrells  
  5.13d
I can't say for sure, but I don't think there were any manufactured, added, or chipped holds on it when I did it in 2006. I never saw any glue, or drill marks, or chiseled edges. That hold you gaston with the right hand, at the crux, looked natural to me.
If something has been chipped, or a non-native rock glued on, especially since 2006, I would be surprised. Nov 9, 2010
The crux hold has never been chipped or drilled it is all natural... but... it has been glued back on twice now... the route is close to unclimbable without the hold in question. Nov 24, 2010
I am inclined to believe your source, Randy. He is very credible and I put alot of stock in his opinion. As someone who was climbing at Red Wing when this line was first bolted and subsequently chipped, I would take him at his word. Dec 2, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.13c
i feel like a dreeb giving this rating, but after consulting with nic (who did nsp second go), him and i decided that nsp is much more closer to 13a than 13+. hard 11 climbing with one 5.13/v7 move does not equal 13+. Dec 2, 2010
Tyler  
I replaced the exposed running bolt and anchors on 4.05.15. While the other running bolts show surface rust, they should be good to go for a while yet. Apr 9, 2015