Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Nate Postma
Page Views: 6,585 total · 43/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


84 Opinions

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Description

Chinese Freedom is one of the best climbs at Red Wing, offering great technical climbing, bomber rock(for MN dolomite, that is), and two back to back cruxes that couldn't be more different in character. Twenty feet of crimpy climbing brings you to the cruxes. The first is a delicate, improbable cross through off a flat undercling sloper. The sloper can't really be grasped, just pushed up on by standing up, and crossing through seems ridiculous until you finally commit and go for it. Many people, particularly those of a shorter stature, end up lunging at the end of the cross through; luckily the pockets you're reaching for are two of the most improbably perfect jugs you'll ever encounter on a route. Shake out and clip from the jugs, then go for the next crux; a huge deadpoint dyno to a flat edge three or four feet above the holes. This hold must be hit perfectly to prevent you're feet from popping off the nonexistent smears for feet. Once through the second crux, easier climbing featuring a fist jam rest, the world's best two finger pocket, and a couple of perfect oxide crimps lead to one last long move to a jug at the anchors.

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Adam Therneau
  5.11d
Adam Therneau  
  5.11d
Probably one of the three best routes at redwing, and the best route of the grade I've ever done. Nov 15, 2006
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11d
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.11d
A classic and one of the most popular on this wall; and for good reason. Mar 5, 2007
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.11d
BIATHLON   Duluth Mn
  5.11d
The first crux can be done without crossing through with your left hand but you must be tall. This route is so classic, a must every time I go to RedWing Oct 20, 2008
11a/b for the sake of downgrading randy. Dec 19, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11d
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11d
hahaha.

dude, i have no right to downgrade. now, you, a colorado resident, can be the downgrade sheriff. Dec 19, 2011