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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Kelly Gorder
Page Views: 2,304 total · 16/month
Shared By: Adam Therneau on May 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Easily overlooked because of its longer, more popular neighbors to the right on the winter wall; Kelly's Arete offers superb, delicate climbing up the arete just to the left of Jam and Jelly. Start up the crack until you can reach left and clip the first bolt. At this point it is possible to move out onto the arete proper and begin the real climbing. A good sidepull allows a long reach to clip the second bolt before beginning the crux, one of the best sequences you'll encounter at the bluff. Reaching from a small left hand undercling, the right is bumped up the arete until a decent pinch is found. Smearing the right foot against a ripple in the rock, the left is brought up to a good edge parallel with the undercling. This position seems tailor made to generate an uncontrollable barndoor swing when the left hand is released, but with a deep dropknee you can release your hand just long enough to make an enormous reach to a slopey pocket up high. A few desperate bumps and you can reach a decent hold around the arete to the right, leading to easier but still technical moves to reach the chains. Unfortunately, clipping the third bolt is very difficult and comes right in the middle of the crux sequence, necessitating a horrible heelhook. Some have chosen to skip the third bolt and climb through the crux before clipping. This should be done with caution though, as a large fall is risked on a very short climb, and a grounder could occur. Perhaps clipping the second bolt with a locking biner instead of a draw would help slightly, and obviously an attentive belayer is a must! However you choose to do it, Kelly's Arete offers some of the bluff's most aesthetic climbing and should be high on everyone's ticklist.

Protection

Bolts--Can also be easily TR'ed by leading Jam and Jelly, which ends on the same ledge. Please use your own gear for top rope.
Wonderful, technical arete climbing. Only drawback is the difficulty of clipping the third bolt. Nov 15, 2006
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.12a
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.12a
One of the best and most underappreciated 12a's at the Bluff. Mar 5, 2007
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
not to nit pick, but the description of this route contains way too much beta! jesus, man. what's left to discover? revealing too much can ruin the sense of adventure one might feel when first attempting the route. if we're gonna have descriptions this detailed, why not include some type of beta disclaimer. i've seen these all over this site.

other than that, fun climb. too bad it's so short. crux lies in climbing past the third bolt, though -- contrary to what some say -- clipping that bolt is not difficult. just takes some footwork. Oct 11, 2008
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.12a
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.12a
Just stop reading the description if you think it's too much. Nobody's forcing you to read it. Who cares. Nov 23, 2008
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.12a
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.12a
This climb is great! clipping the third bolt is no problem. Heel hook around the arete with left hand on the undercling, or go one move past it. To bad its not longer. Oct 30, 2011
Nick Smith
Saint Paul, MN
  5.12a
Nick Smith   Saint Paul, MN
  5.12a
Undercling is gone. I'd like to hear if anyone has any idea's on new beta. PM me please. Jul 2, 2014
peter graupner
stillwater,mn
peter graupner   stillwater,mn
I broke the hold off awhile ago, and that sucks cause I love this climb. it still can be done the same way its just a lot harder. the under cling is now a under crimp cling.....classic red wing Jul 15, 2014
Dommer  
I don't know what this line was like with the undercling, but it still goes at 12a or 12b. Fantastic line with fantastic movement. Sep 13, 2015
Paul K.
West Fargo, ND
 
Paul K.   West Fargo, ND
 
I've heard talk of a broken hold, but I've tried this route for a few years and just climbed it, and it climbs the exact same as I've climbed it before. Maybe I just climb it differently than most people. Oct 4, 2015
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
Two blocks about the size of a shoebox came off this yesterday 3-25-18 while my friends were climbing it. Careful, one almost hit the belayer. They say the grade doesn't change but the holds did. Mar 26, 2018

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