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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,388 total, 10/month
Shared By: Darin Limvere on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

This route does not see many leads. A great crack with some strenuous pro placements on the lower half. Start up the crack on increasingly smaller/slopey feet. Layback/jam up to a slight rest and some gear. The rock gets kinda crappy at this point and one should beware. Follow the thin seam to a good rest and watch out for bats! The climb backs off considerably at this point and a small traverse brings you to the chains. There's loose rock on the traverse and it's definitely not over until the chains are clipped. The lower half of this crack is generally moist in the spring and summer. The right hand finish goes at 12c. At the top of thin seam, milk your rest and get some gear in! Climb up and right to a sloped out crack. Go straight up from there on somewhat dynamic crimp moves. There's no gear aside from two pins that were hammered sometime in the 90's. Hats off to Dahlberg. The crack around the corner from "Jump Start."

Protection

full set of wires, set of aliens or tcu's (doubles extremely helpful), camalots #2-4, couple of shoulder runners/48''

Photos

Ken G
farmington, mn
 
Ken G   farmington, mn
 
I removed a loose block on this route today. It was about a twenty pound chunk located in the chossy area just before the crack goes left. Be cautious at the Bluff there is loose stuff everywhere. Sep 15, 2013
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11
left variation: 10d, 2 stars, very dirty at the top

right variation: 12 b/c, 3.5 stars, great movement up high

also, it's of little use to place gear above the piton. the gear is jingus, and placing the gear requires a lot of time/energy. it's better, in my opinion, to just go for it. you can always back up the piton with some equalized pieces where the 11 and 12 variations diverge. Oct 9, 2010
For the 12+ direct finish I stacked a BD #2 and another cam in a nice hand slot below the good rest near the middle of the climb. starting the 12+ section you can sink a blue alien. The rest is small small nuts. Bring BD micro nuts, #1 and #2 BD nuts. There where two pitons in the seam. There is now only one. I broke one off on an attempt summer of 08. The other is sketch. I believe they where placed in the late 70's so beware. The anchors are rusty and should be replaced. Really fun climb. COMMITTING- Be careful. Apr 12, 2009
The bottom 10-15 ft can be protected with a small TCU or Alien, then there is a pod that I got a #3 Camalot to fit in. After that theres a chossy section that I got a nut in, not sure if i'd trust it or not. I did not lead this I aided it so thats what I can remember for gear. From there I took the 11 variation but if my memory is correct there were 1 or 2 fixed pins in the 12+ variation. Nov 15, 2007
ferrells  
 
anybody willing to divulge more information on this route as a lead? especially interesting would be information regarding the movement, difficulty, safety, history, style, of the 12+ variation. Nov 14, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.11 PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.11 PG13
Small Aliens are better on this route than the lowe balls. This route has a notoriously bad rock, especially in the middle (crux) and the upper sections. Belayers need to watch their head! The 12+ variation is in solid rock, though. Apr 24, 2007