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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Josh Helke, 1998
Page Views: 1,064 total, 8/month
Shared By: Isaac Duncan on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

This is an old Josh Helke route completed way back when, then later deemed impossible by numerous Minnesota hardmen. And probably women too. Two recent sends (the most notable being Tyler Hoffart's second ascent 16 years after the first), however, have proved this thing not only goes, but is a great big ball of fun to climb as well. The line begins on an easy, left trending ramp to the far left side of the winter wall (think near NSP, Relentless, etc.). Basically, its the closest climbable line to the gully separating the winter wall and cyclops areas. You'll figure it out. After climbing the 5.5 ramp, take a break on the pedestal on top, then traverse right on two huecos into a sequence that seriously deserves a V-grade. Complete about 10 feet of hard, cool climbing which becomes rapidly more difficult as you move through it, until two stopper moves and an airy reach to a ledgy jug ends any difficulties. After a loud and energetic celebration (I think I screamed "Yes!" like 10 times), move up and right through slightly chossy 5.9 terrain to old anchors (shared with "Longing for Miss Adonis"). Lower, clean, revel in self awe- you sent this. You are special. You probably deserve a beer. Or the underage equivalent.

Protection

Bolts- it is worth noting that the 5th bolt on this route is next to impossible to clip on a send go, and with a good belayer is perfectly safe to skip.

Photos

Tyler
  5.13a
Tyler  
  5.13a
Like Isaac said, took er down this past Sunday. What a fun boulder problem!
This route is well worth the effort and more people should chime in. Go get on it!
I also have gotten the insider story from Josh Helke on the rating (12a is preposterous!) and hopefully he may choose to share that info. As far as I can tell, this rig is solid 13a. Mar 18, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Isaac, I reassigned the route to you. Please provide an actual description! Thanks in advance. Mar 17, 2015
Isaac Duncan
  5.13b
Isaac Duncan  
  5.13b
Last Sunday, the second and third ascents of this route went down by Tyler Hoffart and myself, respectively. The two sends were about 15 minutes apart, and caused some serious psych. This route officially goes for people who aren't Josh Helke, so everyone get after the thing, it's a blast! My personal opinion is that the route goes at around 13b, but I also was too short to send using Tyler's static beta through the crux, who I believe called it solid 13a at the time. Regardless of the grade, it's fun and hard, and needs more ascents this season! Mar 17, 2015
ferrells  
 
I never posted that I got back on this in the spring this year for a couple of goes and did all the moves. I didn't red point, but agree it's probably something like 13-/13.
Pretty good stuff for Sand Wing. Dec 16, 2014
Tyler
  5.13a
Tyler  
  5.13a
It goes!
Did every move. Just need to put it together. Maybs 13bish? Remember, I can crimp pretty much anything. Aug 3, 2012
I think it could go. Tried it with Ferris (one of the two shut down). Every move went except one for me, but it seems very possible. I would suspect that it ends up in the 13+ range for whoever does it next. Aug 20, 2011
ferris
Saint Paul, Minnesota
ferris   Saint Paul, Minnesota
hmmm A0 agreed. Shut down me and two other guys.
need to ask josh about this. Apr 19, 2011
ferrells  
 
I had exactly the same experience in 2005 or so. The rock wasn't bad - maybe it's actually just really technical and cool (highly doubtful). Jul 11, 2010
Hopped on it today and am perplexed. 12? Really? Are pulling on the bolts considered on route? :P Nov 1, 2009
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
Oh yeah I climbed that, I also thought it merits A0. It's funny Peter B. was just asking me about this route on FB. Maybe we need to take another look at it? Apr 13, 2009
Has anyone done this? I tried it a few years ago and couldn't find a way up it. It did go at A0 though. Apr 12, 2009