Type: Sport
FA: Josh Helke, 1998
Page Views: 2,036 total · 10/month
Shared By: Isaac Duncan on May 16, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Kris Gorny, K Ice

You & This Route


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Description

This is an old Josh Helke route completed way back when, then later deemed impossible by numerous Minnesota hardmen. And probably women too. Two recent sends (the most notable being Tyler Hoffart's second ascent 16 years after the first), however, have proved this thing not only goes, but is a great big ball of fun to climb as well. The line begins on an easy, left trending ramp to the far left side of the winter wall (think near NSP, Relentless, etc.). Basically, its the closest climbable line to the gully separating the winter wall and cyclops areas. You'll figure it out. After climbing the 5.5 ramp, take a break on the pedestal on top, then traverse right on two huecos into a sequence that seriously deserves a V-grade. Complete about 10 feet of hard, cool climbing which becomes rapidly more difficult as you move through it, until two stopper moves and an airy reach to a ledgy jug ends any difficulties. After a loud and energetic celebration (I think I screamed "Yes!" like 10 times), move up and right through slightly chossy 5.9 terrain to old anchors (shared with "Longing for Miss Adonis"). Lower, clean, revel in self awe- you sent this. You are special. You probably deserve a beer. Or the underage equivalent.

Protection

Bolts- it is worth noting that the 5th bolt on this route is next to impossible to clip on a send go, and with a good belayer is perfectly safe to skip.

Photos