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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 4,445 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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A beautiful, overhanging, and intimidating climb on good rock. It looks very long from the ground, and while you're on it that impression is confirmed. The first third is not too bad, sort of warming up for the bouldery crux about 20 feet up. There are two ways to pull the crux; don't pick wrong or it's about 2 letter grades harder. Then it's a scramble to a half-decent rest in the big hole before sprinting to the finishing holds while you still have juice. Really, really fun route.

  • RCM&W #28, p. 121

Or, just left of Barney Rubble on this shot. Thanks Kris.…


Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
Adam Therneau
Adam Therneau  
Fantastic route, only marred by some chossy rock. Very technical, with an incredible, exposed position. Nov 15, 2006
Any beta on this route? Is it enduro or techy? worth being my next 12 project at the bluff? Sep 16, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Hey Travis. Defintely a good one to work on, as long as you have already climbed Living All Over Me, Work Ethic, Talking With God, and Fallout. I liked it as much as Start of Something Good, Arachnid Tendencies, Kelly's Arete, and Soft Touch. Actually, Soft Touch is kind of a one move wonder, so skip that one, although it's pretty fun. I never got a chance to work Mississippi Burning before moving out of state, so can't comment on that one.

I would say more enduro than techy but there are a couple technical balancy moves, depending how you do it.

The beta for Preemptive Strike is: drumroll: climb fast.

Only partially kidding. Adam and others say this route is 12a/b. I think the guidebook pegs it at 12c. I'm bad a rating stuff, but I thought it was hard. I guess comparing it to Living All Over Me, it's easier but longer. I got pretty pumped at the top. If you want actual beta, I will tell you there are 2 ways to do the crux about 20 feet up. You can trend left and go up a seam and then pull back right into the line of bolts, which is how most people do it. You can also ignore that seam and make it a lot harder on yourself going straight up the bulge. The big hole at the top is sandy, and it's said you can get a knee bar in there. I never could, so just shake out and move on. Go RIGHT after the huge hole, not left or straight up. Climb fast. Sep 17, 2007
Thanks for the beta Chris, I've done all of those but Living all over me which i've been trying. So I was looking to add another route to the list and this is sounding like a good choice. Thanks again for your help Sep 17, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
You bet, good luck. Great time of year to send. When I was on it, it was July and awful. If you ever come to Madison PM me and we can hit Governor Dodge or the Lake if I'm not working. Sep 17, 2007
Darin Limvere
Darin Limvere  
I think the knee bar only works if you have really long legs. For all those with freak show legs, it's a full no hands rest... Oct 25, 2007
Kris Gorny

Kris Gorny    
I could never get the knee bar just right. Skipping it may be contrived but makes for a better route and offers a possibility of pumping out and an impressive fall from the shuts IMHO. Oct 25, 2007
A great climb that somehow finds the best position on the winter wall: a soaring shield on good holds very near the highest point of the entire face. At that point, you seem high above your last bolt, and after a couple of thin holds, you get giant jugs to clip the anchors. Next time you're up there, take a second to look around and appreciate your position.
Starts and middles on fun sections that don't check in harder than v4, though you can get a pump. 12a/b Oct 25, 2007
The chalked-up sidepull between the pocket and the bolt in Randy's "start" photo broke off. It left a new sidepull in its place, but have a spotter be watchful while you're using the new one, as it will almost undoubtedly break off after enough use. The change doesn't affect the grade. May 31, 2011
Platteville, Wi
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
One of the better 12-'s on the wall. Very short lived crux (very greasy, slippery underclings) with 5.11- climbing before and after. No need for a knee bar at the top, as long as your comfortable with jugs on a 5 degree overhang. Oct 30, 2011
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
The side pull flake at the end of the cux section broke this last weekend. Doesn't seem to affect the rating. Oct 2, 2012
Fantastic route. A few comments (some beta) because this route seems to be changing significantly over time...

Crux is definitely above the underclings now, with a big throw to a good pocket. It felt fully 12b. After climbing I pulled a large shield off next to the crux hold because it was a deathtrap (see photo). What remains may make this section easier, but 12b still feels appropriate.

Regardless, it's great. Get on it, put a helmet on your belayer and stay safe with the RW choss. Apr 22, 2018

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