Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,407 total · 9/month
Shared By: chris tregge on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

The climb is just to the right of Jam and Jelly. The first section simply climbs the crack/face of Jam and Jelly to the ledge, unprotected, but not really needed. Then it's 11 crimpy to the next ledge, all on the face to the right of the second part of Jam and Jelly. It looks blank from below but it's all there. The second ledge is dirty and sandy and there is a tree in your way, which sort of adds to the charm. Pulling the next overhang on hidden jugs is the crux IMO. It's not a stellar route but if you're running out of 11's to climb this one is pretty good. The book gives it 11+, but I think that's a little soft, 11b?.

  • RCM&W #40, p. 125

Protection

Bolts. New anchors (thanks Jeff). Consider clipping the first bolt of Kelly's Arete on your left with a long runner if you want. Or you could put a #4 camalot or a hex in the crack to protect the first section. Feel free to PM me updated bolt/anchor info if you want, it's been a long time since I climbed this.

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