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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,248 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The climb is just to the right of Jam and Jelly. The first section simply climbs the crack/face of Jam and Jelly to the ledge, unprotected, but not really needed. Then it's 11 crimpy to the next ledge, all on the face to the right of the second part of Jam and Jelly. It looks blank from below but it's all there. The second ledge is dirty and sandy and there is a tree in your way, which sort of adds to the charm. Pulling the next overhang on hidden jugs is the crux IMO. It's not a stellar route but if you're running out of 11's to climb this one is pretty good. The book gives it 11+, but I think that's a little soft, 11b?.

  • RCM&W #40, p. 125

Protection

Bolts. New anchors (thanks Jeff). Consider clipping the first bolt of Kelly's Arete on your left with a long runner if you want. Or you could put a #4 camalot or a hex in the crack to protect the first section. Feel free to PM me updated bolt/anchor info if you want, it's been a long time since I climbed this.

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Byron
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Byron   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Did something break off by the second bolt? Climbed this years ago and thought it was great, got on it today and bailed at the second bolt. Seemed pretty blank moving past bolt #2 to the jug bellow bolt #3. Oct 19, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Oh yeah, when I replaced the anchors, I turned the old 3" bolt and the rock just fractured and the bolt fell out with rock crumbles in my hand. So I put 5" bolts in and left the last 3" bolt as the "Hail Mary". That's why there is 10' of chain up there. Nov 7, 2010
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
IMHO, this is THE classic 5.11 at RW. Crack, face, overhang, crimpers, devious slopey finish when you are spent. And the view is fantastic. Anadonia can't compare, 1 move wonder. Nov 7, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Rating updated to reflect current consensus. Apr 23, 2010
Byron
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Byron   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Surprisingly enjoyable, more so than Annadonia. In my mind the epitome of mid 5.11 climbing. Nice exposure for Red Wing. Jul 19, 2009
Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
 
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
 
The Go Between has nice new anchors at the top now. Doesn't get done much, but is a pretty fun route! Mar 29, 2009