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Routes in Winter Wall

A Drilling Experience S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barnburner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blank Man S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Chinese Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cooler Than Ice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cooler Than Paradigm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Do The Right Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foreign Affairs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Go Between, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gravity Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Insectaphobe S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Itch, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jam and Jelly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jump to Something Good S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kelly's Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Living All Over Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Longing for Miss Adonis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Meet the Feebles S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mississippi Burning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
NSP S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
New Kids on the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Marmalade S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paradigm Shift S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paul's Boutique S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Preemptive Strike S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pretty in Pink T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Relentless T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rock Pigs S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skooter Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Soft Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spy Friction S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Squeeze Play S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Start of Something Good S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toxic Art T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vias, aka Godzilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Jim Blakley
Page Views: 5,517 total · 37/month
Shared By: Darin Limvere on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the classic trad climb at Red Wing. In previous years people have attempted to turn this crack into a sport climb. It has been bolted, chopped, re-bolted and chopped many times. The original route (5.11a) takes the right hand crack and traverses left onto an obvious ledge about 15ft off the deck. There are possibilities for high gear placements to protect the traverse. The left variation starts below the ledge and goes straight up. Only one piece of gear protects the move onto the ledge. Follow the crack up left to a good rest. The crux gear is in solid rock and it is possible to get in 2 to 3 pieces to protect it. Keep hauling up the crack until you're under a large flake. Pull over the flake/bulge onto the face and clip the chains. Some loose rock sits behind the flake and could cause problems with clipping the chains if grabbed. Beware. Hard onsight. Located at the far right side of the Winter Wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Original route- full set of wires, small cams, hexes #6-#10, or medium cams #.75-#3 (doubles or triples on #.75) a couple long runners

Left variation- full set of wires, small cams, hexes #7-#10, or medium cams #1-#3, a couple long runners

Photos

Adam Therneau
  5.10d
Adam Therneau  
  5.10d
Nice crack climb, always pumps out my right arm. I've never been comfortable enough with the crap rock to risk leading this thing. Nov 15, 2006
I know the rock is pretty shatty in places at the Bluff, how bad is it on this route?? I'm thinking about leading it this weekend but wanted to get an idea of how the gear is and if its worth hopping right on it on lead or if I should set up a TR first. Jun 19, 2007
About 15-20 ft up just below the crux, a large section of a block broke off creating a small ledge. You could now have a hands free rest before heading into the crux of the route. I haven't done it since the block broke off but its probably a little softer now. Nov 12, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
Wow, when did the piece break, Travis? There was a hollow sounding crack just above the platform. Is that it? Nov 16, 2007
Yeah it was right once you move past the traverse platform by maybe 5-10 ft. I'll be interested to see how it changes the route. Funny considering I posted earlier this year wondering how the quality of the rock is on this route. Nov 17, 2007
Darin Limvere
  5.10d PG13
Darin Limvere  
  5.10d PG13
Yeah... We always joked about being on that part of the climb and the whole thing coming off and riding the block to the ground! Funny cause that was also the spot to place sketchy nuts behind the block. It looks like it's a full no hands rest so I'd imagine the route will get easier but maybe the gear won't happen until the crux... Who knows. I guess the gear probably wasn't all that good anyway seeing how the thing fell off. Hats off to whoever leads that thing first this season. Could be interesting! Apr 30, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
I led it few times this spring. Only an upper part of the column, that we joked would come off one day, fell. The new platform makes it easier but is not "no hands". It is rather hollow and only as stable as the part that broke off. It may be a good idea to use a crowbar before someone gets seriously injured. Be careful on this climb, whether on lead or top rope. The crux and above is solid. By Red Wing standards that is. May 19, 2008
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
thanks for the update kris;

i will add this route on the routes to be looked at on clean up day... i'm trying to save this route and only climb it when i feel like i'm ready to lead it... that may change depending on if it still can be led safely from the ground up. since the route has changed, i can already hear the drills humming ;) .

-=glenn=- May 20, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
Glenn, hit that "column" few times and see if it's reasonable to try prying it out. It is definitely hollow-sounding. You can inspect the top part that's now on the ground -- still has chalk marks. It probably fell off on its own, with nobody on it, otherwise I can't imagine the belayer wouldn't get hit. May 20, 2008
Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
  5.10d PG13
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
  5.10d PG13
I led this today and the "column" seems to be OK. Super solid.. no. Not sure if you could take the thing off, it might cause more damage than good to take a crowbar to it and loosen it up more without being able to get it off completely. Something to think about when it gets looked at.

Climb was a little sandy above, although like Kris said, the gear was actually pretty solid after the "new" ledge. May 21, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
Jeff -- to clarify, I am not talking about the entire "column" but only its upper block, which is ~ 3ft high and is delineated from the rest by a horizontal fracture. I remember the similar fracture under the 5ft top that fell off. I agree with you though that we shouldn't try prying it out unless it's clearly moving. I still wouldn't fall on any gear that's placed in the crack behind it. May 23, 2008
Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
  5.10d PG13
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
  5.10d PG13
Kris- Agreed, we are talking about the same 3':) I also placed some gear around there, warned the belayer and headed out for the ledge and some good gear. When I lowered off, as I took out that piece I yarded on the block pretty hard (weight =197lbs) and there was not any shifting or movement at all.

But as always, be safe and use good judgement. It is after all a great climb. May 23, 2008
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
I know the guy who pulled that top piece off a few years back that everyone is talking about. From the sounds of it, his belayer did some sort of matrix move to escape the jaws of death... no joke! Jun 18, 2010
Kris Gorny

  5.10d PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.10d PG13
The chunk is still there. Looking at it (with its sharp edges) it has always been difficult to imagine nobody got hurt! Jun 19, 2010
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.10d
Solid climb with A LOT of solid cam placements.

I just lead with:
-doubles from BD C4 #.4 through #2
-a single BD C4 #3 (optional)
-a single red BD C3
-a pink tri-cam placed passively at the top of right flake when you cross over.

(leave the nuts and hexes on the ground)

This gear allowed it to be sewed up very tight (a piece every 4-6ft)

The hand crack at the top eases in difficulty Jun 21, 2010

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