All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Dihedrals

Freeway

Name: Freeway
Rating: 3.9

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in The Dihedrals

L › R R › L A › Z

	50 Foot Quiche, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Bombay Sapphire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Deadend Dihedral T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Europa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
	Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Freeway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Gauntlet, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Men Holding Hands T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Millenium Falcon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Never Ending Traverse, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Parallax View, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Planet Caravan T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Sea of Tranquility T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Sticky Fingers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Stone Free T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Stélmexw T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Sunset Strip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Warriors of the Wasteland T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 11 pitches
GPS:	49.6814, -123.1482
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	26,926 total · 112/month
Shared By:	Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. Details

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

Description

This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.

P1, Slab climb past several bolts to a belay at a tree (10d).

P2, Steep corner with two bolts to bolted belay (11b).

P3, climb daylight crack(fists) for a bit then traverse down and right along slopey ledge to a bolted belay.

P4, climb long left facing corner with two distinct cruxes to a bolted belay (11c).

P5, Another long pitch climbing corner then face to the truck stop ledge below a large roof (11a).

P6, climb through the awesome roof out to the left (11c).

P7, Traverse straight right from the belay, then straight up on face holds (11a).

P8, Down and right to a short corner, up then right to a finger crack, leading to a belay below a large roof (10c).

P9, Left up thin cracks then right to belay at deep corner (11a).

P10, Climb offwidth corner (10a R).

P11, climb the steep bolted arete to the top (10d).